Not many Chilean wines have made it into these listings recently, but here's a really fragrant, flavoursome white that stands out from the crowd. Herbaceous scents, ripe tropical fruit and the merest touch of creaminess from barrel fermentation come together subtly in Viu Manent Fume Blanc Reserve 1998/9 (Dobbins, £4.25 a glass, £19 a bottle; www.dobbinswine.com - see below - £114 a case or £9.50 a bottle; also available at Unicorn, Merrion Row; Sichuan, Kilmacud; Thai House, Dalkey; Brook Lodge, Aughrim; White Gables, Moycullen; Sheen Falls, Kenmare; retail outlets include Claudio's Wines, Drury Street (see below); McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Redmonds, Ranelagh; and some other off-licences, usually £8.99).