T he black cockerel of Chianti Classico is one of the best-known wine symbols. It was created to help distance Chianti Classico from what were (correctly) perceived to be inferior wines from the larger Chianti region. The Classico region covers nine communes, all part of the original Chianti area. It was one of the first wine regions ever to be delimited, in 1716 by Cosimo III, although it had a reputation long before that. Over centuries the Chianti region was expanded to include many lesser vineyards. While there are a few good estates in the satellites of Chianti dei Colli Senesi and Rufina, all of the truly great Chianti producers can be found within the Classico region.
The area is hugely popular with foreigners, not surprisingly given the wonderful timeless landscape of steep hills, ancient fortified villages, stone-built houses, cypress trees and forests. Painters and more recently photographers have always been drawn towards the excellent quality of light.
During the 1960s and 1970s a large amount of very average wines were produced under the Chianti name, often in the traditional straw-covered bottle beloved of Irish flat dwellers of that era. It was a difficult period for many producers. Few consumers were willing to buy the wines, which, hampered by clumsy legislation, were often not as good as they should be.
In fact, many of the top producers began selling their best wines as simple Vino do Tavola or table wines. These came to be known as “Super-Tuscans” and sold for prices far greater than the same producer’s Chianti. More recently, there has been a huge improvement in quality generally. Some estates now use a permitted percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot in the wine, but traditionalist rail against this, arguing that genuine Chianti Classico should be made from Sangiovese, with the possible addition of the local Canaiolo or Colorino grape varieties.
Sangiovese is not the easiest of grapes to fall in love with. It requires patience and understanding. The vineyards of Chianti Classico are at relatively high altitudes, so it can be a challenge to ripen grapes fully. The wines often have plenty of acidity and dry tannins. This is not the sort of wine you sip on its own; it requires food to show at its best. The better examples also need time – I am currently finishing off some half bottles of 2006 and full bottles of 2004 that I bought a few years back.
Recent vintages have been reasonable. The 2009 was ripe and forward, although some lack a little stuffing; there were some very good, balanced, savoury wines in 2010, and 2011 seems to be good to very good. As always, it is better to stick with the best producers in any vintage.
A typical Chianti Classico estate will produce several quality levels of wine (often alongside some delicious peppery olive oil), starting with a basic or “normale” Chianti Classico. These are followed by a Chianti Classico Riserva, made from the best grapes, and aged in oak for an extended period. There may also be a single vineyard wine or perhaps a Super-Tuscan made from international grape varieties.
Some will also have a simple dry white wine, and occasionally a Vin Santo, a delicious if expensive, sweet white wine made by a unique ageing process.
Even basic Chianti Classico is not cheap and typically costs between €20-€30. However, from a good estate they are excellent wines, firm and concentrated with savoury, slightly chewy dark cherry fruits and a pleasant, dry finish. In good vintages they will age nicely for four to eight years
. South of Chianti Classico lie the other two great names of Tuscany, Montalcino and Montepulciano, both hilltop villages responsible for very differing styles of Sangiovese. We shall look at these later in the year.
In addition to the wines below, look out for the following names; Castello di Vicchiomaggio, Lamole di Lamole, Casa Emma, Antinori, Badia a Coltibuono, Fontodi, San Felice. In addition, some branches of Marks & Spencer have the Castello di Volpaia Coltassala 2008, for €53, one of the most graceful and elegant of all Chianti Classico.
Tuscan food has a deserved reputation. A meal frequently starts with a bowl of chickpea or mushroom broth, followed by a pasta dish, accompanied by a lighter red wine. With a main course of red meat, followed by cheese, a more substantial red is served. For Chianti Classico, simply grilled or roast meat is the best accompaniment. Locals would eat game or a rare steak, but any red or white meat will do fine. It makes a great match for roast lamb, worth remembering with Easter around the corner.
jwilson@irishtimes.com
