With the male grooming industry booming and Irish men increasingly less self-conscious about wearing make-up, Brian O'Connellgoes for a cosmetic consultation
DONNA IS MY very own cosmetics consultant. We're at the Giorgio Armani counter in Brown Thomas in Cork, and tucked away from the main public walkway, like schoolkids behind the bike shed, she tells me I have very youthful-looking skin. "Firm, but with a good texture," she adds.
Donna says all the right things.
It's 10.30am on a Tuesday, and as she massages my face with "volcanic stones", I've stopped caring what the lads down the local might think. In between rows of foundation, concealers and perfumes, Donna and her colleague, Sinéad, take me through Armani's men's products, from "primers" to "boosters" and on to "masters". We're talking fortifying serums and moisturising bronzers, cleansing creams and regenerating lotions.
The photographer can't keep a straight face, and mockingly tells me I look "only gorgeous". Donna says "never mind", whispering that men's skin is thicker than women's, so the serum she is applying is designed solely for the male visage. "It can be used after shaving or every day, and is one of our most popular products," she says.
Goodbye, razor burns. Hello, smooth skin.
The mineral-enhanced serum costs €73. But looking like you're still in your late 20s when your pot belly suggests otherwise? Priceless. And, Donna tells me, it also doubles up as a night cream. My prayers are answered.
The acceleration in the men's cosmetics business over the past five years has seen it evolve from a focus on shaving accessories, such as balms and gels, to the recent move into male make-up. there are no figures available for Ireland but in the UK it is estimated that the male grooming industry is worth a massive €900 million per annum. "Guyliner" landed on the high street last summer, quickly followed by "manscara", both of which should please male make-up devotees such as Russell Brand, Johnny Depp and recent Big Brother contestant Stuart Pilkington. Lip-balms and "cover-ups" especially tailored for men are expected to follow, proving that there's life in the metrosexual man yet.
Not to be outdone, Yves Saint Laurent has announced its new L'Homme grooming range, which includes "anti-fatigue cream", "healthy look moisturiser" and, for the first time, a male version of Touche Éclat, its bestselling product for battling blemishes, dark circles and signs of fatigue.
Sonya Clifford, account manager at Yves Saint Laurent, says the copmpany has had dozens of inquiries from male customers asking about the new fragrance-free male concealer, due for release at the end of the month. Many of these customers have been using the female version of the product regularly since its release in 1992.
"One man comes in every few weeks to buy the product," Sonya says, before adding: "In this day and age men are more into their grooming and looking well. I've no problem with men coming in and looking for cosmetic products - at the end of the day it's about men looking and feeling good."
DUBLIN ACTOR Will O'Connell (35) says he spends more than €60 a month on men's cosmetics, and admits he is curious about the new products coming on to the market. Like most men, he says he first became aware of looking after his skin as a teenager, with products such as Clearasil, before later moving to moisturisers and balms.
"I've had girlfriends who were open about me borrowing their moisturiser, and as I've gotten a bit older, you become more conscious of your appearance, especially as an actor," he says. "The marketing of products at the moment is very good, and I have found myself in cosmetics departments trying out different things. Because I have a lifestyle that is hectic and can involve lots of late nights, I wouldn't see anything wrong with putting concealer under your eyes."
Society is changing, says O'Connell, and even if some men don't admit it, males are a lot more conscious about their skin and the types of products available. Perhaps it's an inevitable consequence of the fudging of gender lines.
"I think men are becoming quite open about how they look after themselves," he says, "For instance, in the gym where I go, a lot of men will use moisturisers and there's no one sniggering at them. In terms of guyliner and manscara, I'd be curious. I know guys who tint their eyelashes and so on. I had to do a play recently where I had to wear eyeliner, and I did think about leaving it on afterwards!"
Sales assistant Sean Dunlea says he too uses a range of cosmetic products, from cleansers to eye creams, and has noticed a huge upsurge in the range of products available on the market.
"I work in a very public environment, so if I've had a late night or just a long working week, then I might apply some concealer to help cover up dark circles," he says.
"It helps give you confidence. Yves Saint Laurent and Armani are two of the first companies to specialise in men's make-up products, and it's about introducing guys gently to the concept. It was always frowned upon for guys to wear make-up, but if we can do it in an acceptable way, then why not? For example, I'm wearing the Armani bronzing moisturiser now, and it's very subtle and natural. I use it for a feel-good factor and also it's helping my skin long-term."
And, it's not just your stereotypical fashion-conscious metrosexual buying into the concept, Dunlea argues.
"You'd be amazed at the profile of men I see buying products: everything from rugby guys to builders," he says. "A lot of the products are fragrance-free so that guys don't feel like they're wearing women's products, and of course the marketing is very slick and masculine."
Carpenter John Clarke, who works on building sites in Cork, says he would have no problem if a builder arrived on site wearing mascara.
"If a fellow feels comfortable with himself, and is not too vain in the process, I don't think it matters whether he wears mascara or fluffy knickers to work," Clarke says. "I know working men who use moisturiser regularly. I also know lads from the sites that wear fake tan and foundation when they're out at night. Once someone is just doing it to look after himself, and not for vanity purposes, then I wouldn't have a problem with it.
"Now, having said that, if a fella turned up on the site with make-up on, he'd still get a good slagging for it!"
BUT MALE MAKE-UP is not universally acceptable quite yet. When an Irish online blog announced the arrival of Touche Éclat for men last week, one female reader's response was telling: "Holy Jesus - there would be divorce proceedings in my house if himself came home with this."
ALL EYES: PRODUCTS FOR MEN
Eylure:Natural Lashes for Men
The first eyelash product solely for men, costing around €7, is described by Eylure as regular false eyelashes with a clear strip along the base so there is no "lashline".
Guyliner
Companies including Male Species and John Paul Gaultier now carry eyeliner products for men, costing from €5 to €10. There's even a T-shirt range with the tagline: "Real men wear eyeliner."
Manscara
This product from Studio 5ive Skin Systems, costing €20, is aimed at men who want more defined eyelashes (and what man doesn't?).
Touche Éclat for Men
One of Yves Saint Laurent's Touche Éclat gold highlighter pens sells every 20 seconds to women worldwide. It has now been tailored to the needs of modern men. Available in Ireland at the end of this month, a 2.5 ml tube will cost €33.50.