Leaves may not yet have turned golden, nor evenings grown short and chill. But clear evidence of autumn's imminent arrival came yesterday with the first of the new season's Irish fashion shows. Back from their summer holidays - and in many cases still sporting tans acquired abroad - the loyal clientele of designer Pat Crowley slipped into her Dublin salon for a glass of something fizzy and a look at what their wardrobes need for the months ahead.

The majority of women present still seemed to be dressed for high summer, with a preponderance of light colours and fabrics. Publisher Ann Reihill, for example, wore a raw silk suit in apple green, while the chairwoman of the National Gallery, Carmel Naughton, was in a baby-pink short-sleeved silk dress. There were lots of smart trouser suits too in black or navy: Patricia Jorgensen in the former by Ramsay of Dublin and Maureen Cairnduff in the latter from Max Mara. Annie, Lady Arnott, teamed a navy jacket with taupe dress, Marie Heaney wore a linen jacket in bold check and Eileen Mount Charles was dressed in a woven silk suit in cafe-au-lait.

Pat Crowley had dressed herself of course - in a highly distinctive, natural linen Nehru-collared frock-coat and matching bootleg pants. She hovered at the entrance to the salon, checking on the appearance of each model, adjusting jacket collars and gently tugging at skirts.

"Tell Marie to do another twirl," she stage-whispered as one of the other models took a fraction longer than expected to get changed. Up and down a tiny staircase they flew, managing to avoid tripping over either their clothes or each other. Occasional bursts of laughter from their changing room could be heard below, as when someone was sent to inquire about the source of some very smart high heels tied by satin ribbon at the ankle.

"They're terribly sexy," murmured one member of the audience. Unfortunately, it turned out these were a home-made job and therefore not for sale anywhere around the city.

Pat Crowley's clothes, on the other hand, were most definitely available to buy and as guests left the salon, they could be seen quietly arranging a further visit in the near future. After all, autumn is almost upon us and preparations must be made.