The numbers coming to Ireland to learn Irish reflects a vibrant interest among foreigners in learning the language, writes Julie-Anne Barnes

At Áras Mhairtín Uí Chadhainn in Carraroe, deep in the Connemara Gaeltacht, they have recorded the largest increase in non-Irish nationals taking Irish language courses ever. The classes usually have up to 40 students - this year there are 57.

"Some students would be total beginners," explains course manager Treasa Uí Lorcáin. "Others want some of the language to help them with their studies. People have roots in Ireland and that's why they come," she says.

Brian Ó hAirt from St Louis, Missouri, says there are still many Irish-Americans searching for a sense of identity. "I think there's a lot of cultural nostalgia and a romanticism of Irish."

Brian is taking a masters degree in traditional Irish music performance and feels Irish will help him understand aspects of his course like sean-nós singing. After English, Irish is Brian's main language. He has taken Irish classes at the University of Wisconsin. He is not disappointed with the ability of native Irish people to speak the language, but feels when some hear Americans speaking in Irish, they get defensive. "It's the inferiority complex of minority languages," he says.

Chinatsu Hakamada, a post-graduate student from Japan, is visiting Áras Mhairtín uí Chadhainn for the second time. She finds it more difficult to speak in English than Irish. She admits Irish is difficult for her to learn but she says learning a language is the best way to understand the history and culture of a country.

The emphasis of the course is on the spoken language. Students are encouraged to use the basic phrases they have learned from the moment they arrive. As well as taking intensive Irish language courses, students can take lectures on folklore and the history of the language. There are also singing classes and set-dancing classes. Trips to the Aran Islands are included in the programme.

One obvious problem however for foreigners who have learned to speak Irish is that they have little opportunity to use it. Carraroe is one of the strongest Gaeltacht areas in Ireland but Treasa feels foreign students are "more realistic in their expectation".

"They are more aware of what life is like, they're not as naïve as they used to be. Really, they're interested in the whole experience and really want to tap into the Gaeltacht."

That can be a lot more difficult in Dublin. However, on Harcourt Street, Conradh na Gaeilge's lights are on at night and in the basement Irish and foreign students mingle, drink tea (and Guinness) and speak Irish.

Irish language courses are given in Conradh na Gaeilge from beginners up to fluency level. Six students, one of whom is Irish, have just finished their intensive three-week course and are receiving their certificates from Deirdre Nic Eanruig.

Alistair Finlayson from Glasgow says he travelled along the west coast of Scotland and his wife, who is Irish, could understand and translate the names of lakes or hills.

He felt he was missing out on something that was "so much part of our heritage". He points out some of the difficulties with the language saying the advantage of learning French or German is when you go to that country the language "is there in front of you". Irish for Alistair is more of a hobby.

Deirdre Nic Eanruig notes that language is not just about communication. There are so many religious greetings in Irish derived from a strong Catholic tradition, for example, and "it is logical our language would express that."

There are Irish language courses for non- nationals and Irish people throughout the summer in Donegal, Galway, Kerry, Waterford, Meath and Dublin. Already, some of the graduates from Conradh na Gaeilge are requesting information on other Irish courses.

The bottom of their certificates read: "Beatha teanga í a labhairt - The life of the language is to speak it."

• The Conradh na Gaeilge website is www.cnag.ie