Forcing its narrow path through the black sky, a determined winter sun illuminates the approach to Athlone. It is, as a roadside sign proclaims, "the heart of Ireland". Crossing the Shannon here, heading west, always inspires a surge of elation - just one of many reasons for liking Athlone.
With an immediate population of about 14,000 and a wider catchment of 60,000, the town is a practical, friendly place. "I wouldn't say it's the greatest place to shop," says the laconic young man at the petrol station. Never mind.
Driving to the other side of town, we locate the only available parking place and, with SAS-like resolve, prepare our campaign. This begins by standing on the bridge in the rain for a few moments, admiring the view up the river which is flanked by the squat, powerful form of the castle. Destroyed several times during Athlone's long history, the castle was heavily remodelled about 1800 in the face of a feared Napoleonic invasion. The most likely invaders at the moment, however, are Christmas shoppers.
The difference about the Christmas crowds here is that most of the people know each other. It's relaxed. Weary of big city frenzy and anonymous crowds? Go west.
Walking down Church Street, the array of colours dominating the large window of Kids' Paradise, draws us in. With five children ranging in age from 15 to five years, owner Maura Conlon learnt all about the market for specialist children's clothing a long time ago. Among the ranges she stocks is Pampolina.
"I think it is a particularly good choice for Irish children as it's a German range and the sizes cater for physically bigger children." The colours are subtle greens, greys, blues and yellows, all beautifully co-ordinated, comfortable, even sophisticated without being fussy or too cute. Also among Conlon's favourite designer is Marese, a French range which includes some beautiful overcoats that are machine-washable. Various shades of blue mixed with strong reds dominate the collection. The Dutch designer Lego offers bright yellows and blues - "boys like these clothes, they actually like wearing them". The layered look is also in and is favoured by Mini Man, another French designer, while many of the gorgeous little dresses have over-skirts and pinny-effect, attachable skirts and aprons.
Looking for something for a small baby? How about a pair of stretchy leather moccasins from Bobux from New Zealand, at £15.95? Further down the street is Heatons, a somewhat haphazard, traditional department store. Any purchase over £20 entitles you to buy a large teddy bear for £10. My small associate ran an expert eye over the toy section and quickly discovered sets featuring 101 Dalmations dogs at £4.99; each set includes two puppies - one pair plays with a yellow wagon; another battles over a plastic bath complete with taps. Lion King placemats, at 99p each, are noted but Barbie is bypassed in favour of a "must buy" red and white 101 Dalmations tea-set at £9.99.
On the lookout for new riding hats, we arrive at Dolan Market- ing at Castlemaine Street, a small outdoor-pursuits shop. There is a choice of either the traditional velvet-covered helmet or the more menacing black skull hat at about £44. Also in stock is a good range of fleeces including the Aigle range at varying weights, available in several colours. Hunter rubber boots, sizes 3-12 at £39, are stocked, as are climbing-quality socks and rainwear. No fuss, no loud music.
From here we check out Hardiman's Bike Shop. In business since 1956, James Hardiman is currently offering £40 off all Raleigh bikes. How important is a label? "The life of a bike depends more on the quality of the owner it gets than on the label that's stuck on it," he says. As elsewhere, there are signs of Barbie's continuing world domination. "Barbiepink is in," he says. The pink Little Darlin' model is selling well at £99 for ages five to eight, while the larger model, suiting an average 10-year-old, is £125. Far more beautiful, however, is the Coventry Eagle Search at £139, which comes in a subtle metallic grey/ blue/green. "It is a lovely colour, but girls want pink."
Not all girls like pink. Passing by Irishtown Pharmacy, we spot among the decorations further evidence of Athlone's strong 101 Dalmations presence. Pongo and four puppies appear to be guarding the family soap dish, which is shaped like a dog's basket and priced £2.99.
Parking: At Golden Island, Athlone UDC and at the Fair Green.
Lunchstop: The Left Bank restaurant and coffee shop. Bradbury's later for cakes .
Hinterland Hint: If all else fails, head for the excellent Mulvey's Garden Centre about two miles outside the town on the main Roscommon/Mayo road. Having stocked up the car with plants and clay pots, there should still be time to stand on the shore of Lough Ree. We did.
