New York is a city where Christmas shopping is not so much a chore as a right enshrined in the constitution. From the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Centre to afternoon tea at the Plaza hotel on Central Park, there are numerous rites and traditions that go to make up a traditional December in the Big Apple. It's also one of the best places in the world to find unusual presents. A good place to start is one of the huge department stores uptown - Macy's on West 34th Street claims to be the biggest store in the worldwhile Barneys on Madison Avenue is home to all the top designers and this year has brilliant Christmas windows - giant talking heads of the likes of Queen Elizabeth and Bill Gates constructed out of bottle tops, eyeliner pencils and CDs. Kids will love them.
A must-see toy megastore, FAO Schwarz on Fifth Avenue is every child's mecca even including a whole town that Barbie calls her own. Downtown and much hipper is another cave of delights called Enchanted Forest, full of handmade toys, stocking fillers and gorgeous books.
You should also head downtown if you want to find really funky shops offering the work of young designers as well as bags, scarves, jewellery and this season's essentials, in New York at least: mittens, leather cuffs and bobble hats. Wander into Mayle on Elizabeth Street and you could be forgiven for thinking you had strayed into somebody's bedroom - there are Asian robes, antique shoes and zebra-print bags strewn everywhere. Stop by Wang on Mott Street , Calypso on Broome Street and Tracy Feith on Mott Street for good small designers and accessories.
The downtown area is also home to all sorts of specialist shops that are often perfect for difficult presents. Broadway Pan- handler on Broome Street is great for cookware of all sorts, and A Photographer's Place is packed with old prints, vintage cameras and books, while After The Rain on Mercer Street specialises in handmade kaleidoscopes. Kate's Paperie on Broadway has more than 200 different kinds of paper as well as all manner of gifts. And Dean & Deluca, also on Broadway, is possibly the choicest deli in the world.
For jewellery, some of the best places to look are the stalls around the downtown area which often sell key pieces at great prices. For a gift that's more impressive than expensive stop off at Tiffany's and pick up a delicate silver pendant which clocks in at under £50 and mean you can hand over the trademark Tiffany blue box at Christmas.
Where to shop
Macy's, 151 W 34th Street (2126954400)
Barneys, 660 Madison Avenue (212-8268900)
FAO Schwarz, 767 Fifth Avenue (212-644940)
Enchanted Forrest, 85 Mercer Street (212 925667)
Mayle, 252 Elizabeth Street (2126250406)
Wang, 219 Mott Street (2129416961)
Calypso, 424 Broome Street (2122740449)
Tracy Feith, 209 Mulberry Street (212-3343097)
Broadway Panhandler, 477 Broome Street
A Photographer's Place, 133 Mercer Street
After the Rain, 149 Mercer Street
Kate's Paperie, 561 Broadway (212-9419816)
Dean & Deluca, 560 Broadway
Tiffany's, 757 Fifth Avenue (2127558000)
Where to flop
Cafe Gitane (212 334 9552) on Mott Street is a fiercely trendy downtown cafe that's great for brunch. Uptown, try L'Ivre restaurant on Madison Avenue (212 355 9888) or chef Larry Forgione's The Coach House on East 32nd Street (212 299 7000).
Where to stop
A newcomer to the boutique hotel world is the Time Hotel on West 49th Street (212 246 5252), where every room is dedicated to a colour, complete with scent, jelly beans and decor. For a bit of midtown comfort at reasonable prices try the Avalon on East 32nd Street (212 299 7000). If you're pushing the boat out, treat yourself to a stay at the Waldorf Astoria on Fifth Avenue (212 355 3000).