Earlier this month King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia left for a six-week break in their summer residence, the Marivent Palace near Palma de Mallorca. They will be joined by Prince Felipe and his pregnant wife, Princess Letizia, who have their own summer home nearby. The royal princesses, the Infantas Elena and Cristina, will also arrive with their families.

The Spanish royals are all former Olympic sailors, and the Palma yacht club is just down the road. They can be seen sailing most days, racing in regattas or, more luxuriously, in the royal yacht Fortuna.

They have been summering in Mallorca for over 30 years, and it is a well-kept secret among Spaniards that the island is far more than the sun, sea and sangria of the thousands of lager louts who arrive there every summer. There are elegant resorts, five-star hotels and isolated coves, many of them only accessible by sea. The island is a favourite summer destination for Madrileños - particularly those wealthy enough to own or charter boats.

The younger generation prefers the neighbouring island of Ibiza, which is more lively. Like Mallorca, Ibiza also has beautiful unspoiled areas, away from the notoriously brash resorts so popular with the 18-30 brigade. Many personalities from the world of stage and screen have their summer villas there, as do Mick Jagger's daughter, Jade, model Kate Moss and their friends.

If the royals enjoy two months' holiday every year, not all Spaniards are so fortunate. In the past most of them took the entire month of August to go to the coast, mountains or to visit relatives in other parts of the country. But times are changing, and an increasing number of them stagger their holidays.

Madrid used to be deserted in August with shops, bars and restaurants closed for a whole month. The only people seen on the streets during the day were a few "mad dog" foreign tourists crazy enough to brave the 40 degrees-plus temperatures as they roamed the streets searching for a cool bar.

All this - except the temperatures - has changed. Now only a few smaller family-owned businesses close in July or August, but rarely for more than two weeks. Most stay open all summer.