Conor Pope tests four popular brands of sparkling waters.

Ballygowan Sparkling Water 1.79 for 2 litres (€0.90 per litre)

Highs: This is the original Irish sparkling water, launched way back when the notion of paying good money for water, fizzy or otherwise, seemed positively outlandish. Now, Ballygowan finds itself competing with a trillion others - okay maybe 20 - for a place on our supermarket shelves. It does hold its own in the face of all the new competition, though,coming with lots of impressively sized bubbles which linger longer than some of its rivals.

Lows: It is not cheap, and its incredible fizziness may be ever so slightly startling.

Verdict: The original but not the best

Star Rating: ***

Centra 1.09 for 2 litres 0.55 per litre)

Highs: This water is cheap, comes in nice big bottles, can be bought late into the night at many outlets and is "natural".

Lows: The fact that it's "natural" is clearly very important to Centra. In the 57 words used to plug the product on the side of the bottle, nature, natural and naturally crop up half a dozen times. True, all water sellers are guilty of writing silly guff on their bottles, but Centra has gone overboard. Despite all the nature going on, the water doesn't taste great and is not particularly refreshing.

Verdict: Not great, naturally.

Star Rating: **

Saskia Quelle from Lidl 0.49 for 1.5 litres 0.32 per litre)

Highs: Water doesn't really taste of a whole lot, so when deciding on a brand it almost always boils down to the price, and this mineral water wins hands down. It is remarkably cheap, doesn't have too much fizz and is perfectly refreshing.

Lows: As with all Lidl products, it's hampered by its lack of widespread availability. Not many people will travel long distances for a bottle of water, so unless you happen across a store you may never reach the source of what must be one of the cheapest sparkling waters in the country.

Verdict: Very, very good value

Star Rating: ****

San Pellegrino Sparkling Water 1.45 for 750ml 1.94 per litre)

Highs: While the thought of having a favourite brand of bottled water could be viewed as a distinctly bourgeoisie affectation, there are many who do - and the chances are it's San Pellegrino. And little wonder - this is a very good product. The water has tiny bubbles and tastes pleasant. It also comes in a suitably expensive looking, eco-friendly, green glass bottle.

Lows: A small bottle can quite easily set you back more than 2, making this affectation almost sinfully costly.

Verdict: Great product but shop around.

Star Rating: ****