The highs and the lows of . . . cheddar cheese.

Xtreme Cheddar
€2.75 for 250g, €11 per kg

Highs: Ensuring a new cheddar makes an impression must be quite a challenge. Dairygold's UK arm has junked, er, cheesiness and launched a tongue-in-cheek (we hope) X-rated brand. This, cheap, mild-tasting product does stand out, but not because of the cheese.

Lows: While there's much to say about the branding, there isn't a whole lot to say about the cheese, except to point out that it is anything but extreme. Or X-rated. It lacks bite and is rather one-dimensional.

Verdict: Slightly dull.

Star rating: **

Horgan's Vintage Cheddar
€3.99 for 200g, €19.95 per kg

Highs: This is the crumbliest cheese tested, with a razor sharp aftertaste. A range of complex flavours compete for your attention and there is a pleasing sweetness which complements the cheddar tang. The wax coating presumably prolongs its shelf life, and it look at home on the poshest of cheese boards.

Lows: While this is not shockingly expensive, it is the priciest of the cheddars tried. It was also the hardest to prise open and it is harder to source than some others.

Verdict: Great taste and texture.

Star rating: ****

Kilmeaden Vintage Cheddar
€2.47 for 200g, €12.35 per kg

Highs: Well, as you might expect from the self-styled fillet of cheddar, this doesn't taste at all bad. It is a mild-tasting cheese and is both good value and widely available.

Lows: While it isn't as crumbly as the packaging might lead you to believe, the more serious complaint is shape. Instead of coming in a squarish block which would facilitate sandwich-sized slices, it has been fashioned into a weird narrow brick-like shape.

Verdict: Tastes pretty good despite its shape.

Star rating: ***

Isle of Man Oak Smoked Cheddar
 €2.99 for 240g, €12.45 per kg

Highs: This has a wonderfully smokey flavour which complements rather than overpowers the cheddar. It has a sweetness yet manages to retain a sharp bite. It has a good firm texture and unlike many smoked cheeses it manages to avoid tasting processed. It's also quite cheap.

Lows: Beyond the fact that it is not so widely available, it is hard to fault. Cheese purists might not be best pleased that such a fine block of vintage cheddar has been sullied with the smoking process.

Verdict: A fine hunk of cheese.

Star rating: ****