A great feast of world cultures and top class music - most of it free - will be presented throughout Dún Laoghaire this weekend, writes Angela Long

Something beautiful has come our way. It might not have the commercial clout which got 135,000 people out on one day to hear Robbie Williams in the Phoenix Park, but it will engage even more in a riotous celebration of world culture, music and goodwill all this weekend.

The amazing creature that is the Dún Laoghaire Festival of World Cultures has been gathering pace for weeks, in a unique fusion of international activity and grassroots effort. This is the third year of the festival, and it is growing in leaps and bounds, up from 20 acts in 2001 to 70 in 2003. Performers from literally all over the world and many Irish acts will be singing, strumming, leaping, rocking and urging the crowds to feel good about themselves and the new Ireland of the 21st century. Best of all, most of it - 70 per cent - is absolutely free.

Events are taking place all around the town centre of Dún Laoghaire, many of them only yards from DART stations and main bus stops. There is a lot of music, but also dance, including dance lessons, film, book fairs, children's events and workshops.

Leading stars of the genre loosely called World Music feature, along with Irish acts. Moya Brennan, of the Clannad family, but who has been a successful solo artist, is the star native daughter, performing at Monkstown Parish Church tomorrow night at 8p.m. At the same time, Congolese superstar Sam Mangwana will be singing his rich mix of West African, Brazilian and Cuban music at the Pavilion Theatre. These two are ticket events.

Tomorrow afternoon, when the sound of drums resounds through the port, it won't signal an invasion, or the final arrival of Napoleon so often anticipated from the Martello tower down the street. It will be the joyous bhangra sounds of the Dhol Foundation, which has modernised and popularised the Punjabi dhol drum.

Their leader, Johnny Kalsi, lives for the dhol, a Punjabi instrument traditionally made of mango wood and goatskin. The son of Punjabi parents who migrated to Kenya in the 1930s, but then joined the exodus to England in the 50s, Johnny learnt the dhol from an uncle, who, he says, was always rather shy about producing it in public.

"His drumming would never be exposed because of the prejudice he feared. The only time he really bought out the dhol was at family weddings."

But on these occasions, Johnny heard this dramatic, visceral music, and he fell in love. "I love this music and I live to play it," he says simply.

His drum, which he made himself, weighs 15 kgs. He will have a line-up of 10 musicians at tomorrow's performance, and the powerful sound may be familiar to those who listen to the Afro Celts or have seen films such as Rabbit-Proof Fence or The Hulk.

Party music is hardly the first thing most Europeans would think of when Sierra Leone is mentioned, but another big presence at the festival will be Sierra Leone's king of rock, King Masco. Born Emmanuel Palmer, the King says he has spent 20 years perfecting his African dance music: "Enjoyable to listen to and enjoyable to watch," he explains.

Based in London, he and his band have just returned from a tour of his homeland. "The concerts were very well-attended and there was no trouble. We come to entertain, to bring a lot of joy to people's lives." King Masco did a show at the Cork Opera House several years ago, but this will be his first time in Dublin. Be ready to boogie.

More African rhythms come from one of the festival's hybrid bands, immigrants from other lands who are now resident in Ireland. The name of the Soukous Allstars refers to their type of music, evolved in Congo and spiced with other African and Latin American influences.

Nindja Mandiangu, the front man, has lived in Ireland for eight years, since he had to flee what was then still called Zaire. "Soukous is great, the best music in Africa," he declares modestly. He and his group are on at the People's Park on Saturday at 2 p.m.

If your taste runs to more traditional frivolity from the neighbouring island, a group called Clerical Error promise an intriguing show in the Harbour Plaza at 4 p.m. on Saturday.

This motley crew, 30 dancers and street entertainers, have revived a particular type of Morris dancing from the Wales/England border, known as Border Morris. "Nonsensical wit" and coal make-up are part of the package. And for sheer beautiful singing, the Dublin Welsh Male Choir, performing on Sunday at 3.30 p.m. on the East Pier, would soothe and uplift.

There is one film, Abouna, by French-Chadian director Mahamat-Saleh Haroun, on Saturday and Sunday afternoon at the IMC cinema.

There are workshops of all sorts of dance and music, a Japanese tea ceremony, Indian henna hand painting, and a children's book fair in the County Hall. The dynamic youth theatre group, Tower of Babel, is hosting an "animal fiesta" including a treasure hunt in the People's Park on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

Apart from the attractions, the big story is the volunteers.

Volunteer co-ordinator Celine Burke has had the services of around 130 unpaid workers for the past six weeks, including technicians for the performances. They've been fetching, carrying, phoning, listing, lifting and slogging all over the town. "Their enthusiasm is fantastic," she says. "Most of them are Irish, but we also have Nigerian, Chinese, Spanish, Japanese, and other nationalities as well, people who heard about the festival or know the acts because they are so famous in their own countries."

Prominent among the volunteers is world music expert Susan Barr, who hosted the genre show on the sadly defunct pirate radio station, Jazz FM. Susan is particularly excited about Sam Mangwana and Los de Abajo appearing. "These people are great. They are number one in their countries and so big in world music. It is a fantastic opportunity to see them."

One of the newer Irish residents helping out is Kazeem Olagoke, originally from Nigeria, who has just got his Leaving Cert results (he passed). Kazeem and mates, for the second year, have been busy publicising the festival, sticking up posters and handing out leaflets. The experience, he says, is "interesting and fantastic".

The festival is financed by Dún Laoghaire/Rathdown County Council, which has a progressive arts office headed by Sarah Searson. There has also been a considerable contribution from the British Council and individual country sponsors, such as Tourism Malaysia, which helped with costs for the Nusantara dance group, which is on at the Pavilion Theatre tonight.

But it is an act of cultural and social faith and love, rather than a commercial enterprise.

As county manager Derek Brady says, "It hasn't managed to wash its face yet". Nonetheless, he is passionate about the festival, of which he was a prime mover. The idea originated in 2000, he says. "I had an interest in world music, and also it's a personal thing, having been interested in local cultures when I travelled. We wanted to do something that year, but realised we started too late to have a proper festival.

"So we waited 'till 2001. We wanted something of quality, but I was equally determined, looking at concert prices in town, that it would be something available to everybody, regardless of income."

For Brady, the three key points are: to affirm the multicultural society, to promote Dún Laoghaire, and to provide an event that is not elitist, for all the people, regardless of race, creed, age or ability to pay.

Dún Laoghaire now has representatives of around 35 different nationalities in its area, and Brady's team see the festival as a big step towards a harmonious mixed society.

Apart from all the positive aspirations, its strength lies in its fun. Pop might eat itself one day, but world music makes a much more satisfying meal for all tastes.

• The festival website is www.festivalofworldcultures.com