Which potatoes are the best for chips? And the best for baking, boiling or mashing?

Gráinne O’Keefe: I could write a book on potato varieties and which ones taste best depending on how they are cooked

Potato gnocchi, sage and garlic butter; loaded fries with braised beef short rib chilli; and Boulangère potatoes with Gruyère cheese
Potato gnocchi, sage and garlic butter; loaded fries with braised beef short rib chilli; and Boulangère potatoes with Gruyère cheese

Potatoes are synonymous with Irish cuisine. Although not originally from Ireland, they have become an integral part of our culture. I remember any time I went to my grandparents’ house when I was younger, dinner was eaten in the early afternoon and always served with a mountain of potatoes on top.

Potatoes are versatile and tasty in all their different forms, whether fried or baked, boiled or mashed or roasted, topped with cheese, or simply with some butter dolloped on top. They are a delicious accompaniment for many meals and are my favourite vegetable.

I’ve done a lot of research into potato varieties over the years, particularly when I was working on the menu for BuJo, the burger chain that has sustainability at its core. I tested all of the different ones available, and cooked them in all different types of oils and fats to see which chips tasted the best. I studied dry matter content, different storage techniques and analysed the sugar content and how it affected the final product.

My findings? I could write a book on it, but in short, Rooster potatoes are the best for baking and making mash (their flavour is sweet and texture is floury). Roosters also make tasty chips but because of their sugar content they brown before they get crisp enough.

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Maris Pipers are great for chips as they can withstand longer cooking times and go crisp before turning brown. My biggest take from the project though was that it’s not easy to find a universal best chip. Some people love crispy fluffy chips, and some prefer browner, softer chips.

These dishes are my favourite ways to eat potatoes (other than deep dried and coated in cheese and onion). The gnocchi will work as a garnish with most main courses and on its own as a starter. The Boulangère is perfect as a side dish, and the fries will work with any topping – you can omit the cheese (I know, I tend to add it to many things).

Potato gnocchi, sage and garlic butter
Potato gnocchi, sage and garlic butter

Recipe: Potato gnocchi, sage, hazelnuts and garlic butter

Boulangère potatoes with Gruyère cheese
Boulangère potatoes with Gruyère cheese

Recipe: Boulangère potatoes with Gruyère cheese

Ultimate loaded fries with braised beef short rib chilli, spring onions and cheese
Ultimate loaded fries with braised beef short rib chilli, spring onions and cheese

Recipe: Ultimate loaded fries with braised beef short rib chilli