Shamrock shakes, matcha-glazed cakes and coddle-inspired stews are all hallmarks of St Patrick’s Day and the clamour of businesses trying to add some emerald to their product to make it a little more “Irish”. For me, growing up in 1990s Ireland, food was a mixture of stew, Findus crispy pancakes, fish fingers and beans, and goodie (this was a dish that my mam made, which was bread crusts boiled in milk and sugar).
Although living in Dublin, I had never even heard of coddle. I did love eating corned beef and brown sauce sandwiches, and for me and my siblings our favourite dinner was steak and kidney pie. I have vivid memories of two pies, still in their tin with the lid cut off, baking in the oven. We would share them, with the soggy underlayer of pastry being the best part.
The last time I ate steak and kidney pie, one of my brothers told me that the filling was made of cat food and that, if I were to eat it, I would be eating what my cat ate. I never ate it again and that day he had my piece too.
Apple tart was also a firm favourite in my house. Dessert was rare, so any time an apple tart was produced, it was special. My brother and I still love apple tart to this day and I’ll never forget the first time he tried my apple dessert at my restaurant, Mae. It was a special moment.
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My most vivid memory of Paddy’s Day is from when I was very young. My dad always brought us five kids to see the parade in town. One year, two of us had chickenpox. He brought us anyway and we got right to the front of the barrier with a large semicircle of free space around us.
This week’s recipes are my takes on foods that I grew up with and associate with Irish food. The corned beef tacos are an obvious nod to my beloved corned beef sandwiches. The cheese and potato croquettes are a nod to Tayto (and just the classic pairing of potato, cheese and onion in general). The apple pie, beloved by me and my brother, is elevated by the beautiful Highbank Orchard Organic Syrup, made in Kilkenny.
Recipe: Corned beef tacos with a zingy parsley sauce
Recipe: Coolattin cheddar croquettes with caramelised shallot dip
