Jim McCarthy's Chart House restaurant in Dingle is one of those places which seems to sum up the spirit of summer. You find it just at the side of the road, as you come into Dingle from the east, in a handsome low stone building fronted by a half door. Inside, McCarthy has created a space of subliminal comfort, the sort of room that makes you want to kick your shoes off and settle in for the evening.
That the room is so relaxing and informal may come as a surprise to those who knew Jim McCarthy in his previous job, as sommelier in Kenmare's Park Hotel. There, his elegant tail-coat and starched shirts suggested a very different sort of chap to the efficient yet laid-back bloke who manages The Chart House.
But if McCarthy has traded his tail-coat for an open-necked shirt, the same meticulous finesse and ability to read the needs of every customer is as evident here as it was in Kenmare. He is one of the great front-of-house managers, and over the past three to four years, with his chef, Laura Boyce, he has created a landmark - or should that be a watermark? - restaurant in The Chart House.
As our pair of recipes show, Laura Boyce's cooking is sparky and fun. It's the right food in the right room: modern, but not at all self-conscious, and packed with flavour. Best of all, it's accessible food, with very good dishes for vegetarians.
Tagliatelle with Aubergines, Blue Cheese, Walnut and Orange Pesto
This is a real whirlwind of flavours. To make orange oil, warm the zest of an orange gently in olive oil and then leave to infuse for a couple of hours. If you don't want to make the tagliatelle, then use a good quality dried pasta instead.
For pasta you will need:
500g of strong flour 2 whole eggs 8 egg yolks 2 tablespoons of olive oil 2 tablespoons of water 2 level teaspoons of salt (Serves six)
Place all ingredients in a food processor and mix, then allow to rest for two-and-a-half hours. Before rolling, divide into six pieces, sprinkle each piece with flour and roll it thin enough to be fed into the pasta machine, starting at the widest setting and working your way down to the second-last setting. Then feed the pasta through the tagliatelle section and allow to hang dry for four hours.
Cook the pasta in boiling water with a tablespoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt for about eight minutes, drain off water and refresh under cold water.
For pesto you will need:
8oz of ground walnuts 2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons of orange oil 1/4 pint of olive oil A pinch of salt/pepper to season (Mix together in a food processor)
To complete the dish: Dice one medium-sized aubergine in 1/4-inch cubes and roast off in vegetable oil. Add the pesto to a pre-heated wok (not too hot), add the pasta, toss together, then add the aubergine with four tablespoons of crumbled blue cheese. Toss together over a medium to high heat for about four minutes. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan.
Lemon Polenta Cake with Compote of Fresh Berries
Here is a lovely use for polenta, which we traditionally associate with savoury main courses, but which is here transformed into a sweet, lemony dessert which makes the most of summer's fresh berries.
For polenta cake you will need:
1/4 lb butter 1/4 lb ground almonds 1/2 lb caster sugar 4 oz polenta 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 3 eggs 2 lemons (zest of two, juice of three quarters) (Serves six)
Butter a 12-inch baking tray, line with greaseproof paper and butter again. Cream butter and sugar together until white and light. Mix baking powder with polenta and almonds. Lightly beat the eggs and gradually add to the butter and sugar alternating with the dry ingredients, then add the zest and juice. Add mixture to tray and place in oven at 180C for 20 minutes, then turn down to 160C for another 20 minutes. Remove and allow to cool.
For compote of berries you will need:
Two punnets of mixed berries half oz butter caster sugar cassis or alternative fruit-based liqueur
In a shallow pan, melt the butter, then add the berries. Depending on how sweet the berries are, you may need to add a little sugar or cassis or another fruit-based liqueur to get the compote to your taste. Portion the polenta when it has cooled and place on a bed of warm compote.
The Chart House, Dingle, Co Kerry. Dinner from 6.30 p.m., closed Tuesdays, tel: 066-9152255