EASTERN PROMISE DESIGNER DRAWS ON HERITAGE:SIMONE ROCHA made a confident debut at London Fashion Week yesterday with her first catwalk show as one of three young designers selected by Fashion East, known for hunting out the UK's most exciting emerging talent.
Her all-white collection, drawing from both her Celtic and Chinese heritage, cut boldly away at familiar masculine tailoring, the gaps softened with net insets and wispy tulle decor. Highlighted with shades of red and some wonderful aluminium collars and perspex accessories, it was inspired, she said, by a visit to her grandfather’s grave in Hong Kong, white being the Chinese colour of mourning. Next month she launches a capsule collection of accessories for Topshop in Oxford Street.
As London Fashion Week closes tomorrow, its reputation for innovative design has been copperfastened with a wealth of promising new names like hers on the catwalk backed by huge industry and commercial support.
At the same time shows from established stalwarts like Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood were impressive too as they played to their signature strengths. Smith’s riff on male tailoring was as skilful and witty as ever with teddy boy suits given a modern makeover in silk moiré while Vivienne Westwood, known for wild ideas and madcap drapery, sent out a cracker of a collection fizzing with great ideas, sassy suits and summer dresses.
It was hard to get the same excitement from the Jaeger show, another heritage British brand revamping its image for the global market. Highfalutin references to British abstract artists failed to ignite a collection that featured cropped parkas and unflattering shifts in oversize floral prints or prom dresses with standaway bodices.
All eyes, however, centred on Burberry yesterday, streaming the action live on the internet from the Chelsea School of Art. With Annie Lennox’s throaty lyrics on the backing track, the fashion powerhouse revved into action, recharging the biker jacket in myriad ways as tough chic armour for the modern urbanite complete with quilting, stud and spike details. Quilting spread on to jackets cinched with acid-coloured belts and trenches were newly defined in snakeskin.
As a fashion statement bound to be copied, it was no holds barred with shiny coats of silver snakeskin and jackets heavily studded with gold spikes proving a glittering highlight.
