These outfits, the so called “statement” pieces from the Brown Thomas spring selection from leading international brands from Dries Van Noten to Chloe, mark a freewheeling feminine spirit accentuated by floral embroidery, delicate prints and rakish ruffles.
There are elements of Victoriana, of lingerie lace, and what Van Noten calls “volume with tailoring, bluster with whisper” in these extravaganzas that seem destined for languid summer evenings, matrimonial celebrations, or for women who can afford a carefree Bohemian look. Indeed some cost more than the most lavish wedding dresses.
Nevertheless, prize items on the runway tend to generate high-street variations very quickly that translate elements of the looks into wearable and affordable alternatives. A strong runway trend, for example, was boudoir lace, plunging necklines and slithery satin, most notably at Celine. It’s one that is easy enough to copy but hard to wear in a grown up way, except by super svelte women with toned bodies.
Rodarte gave skimpy lingerie a raunchy Wild West punch, teaming high boots with a dark embroidered teddy and top. But despite it being much vaunted for summer, it’s hard to imagine slips being safe choices, unless hardened up with leather jackets, chunky sweaters or worn like tunics.
Off-the-shoulder sleeves and voluminous shapes also featured in collections in New York, London and Paris. There are all sorts of riffs on that shrugshouldered Carmen Miranda milkmaid look twirling from the catwalks. They suggest sunny days and demand a certain insouciance.
Chloe’s flouncy, loose and devil-may-care ease is a case in point and Givenchy’s body skimming shift dresses and little lace-edged silk tunics worn with severely cut pants showed how to absorb some of the trends in a wearable way. As temperatures rise, it’s time to capture a lighter, softer, springtime mood.
