An Irish Anglo

GOING PLACES: Four journalists approached us offering stories on the same 'amazing', 'life-changing' experience, so it seemed…

GOING PLACES: Four journalists approached us offering stories on the same 'amazing', 'life-changing' experience, so it seemed only right to publish one. Here is Shane Stokes's account of his week in 'Englishtown', central Spain.

It is said that there is no such thing as a free lunch, yet this sure seemed like one: a week in a village in central Spain, surrounded by mountains, forests and fresh air, and with all food, transportation and accommodation paid for. In return, participants must spend their time speaking English with Spaniards, helping them become more proficient in the language. I couldn't sign up quickly enough.

This concept of teaching Spanish students English through direct contact is the brainchild of Richard Vaughan, an American who went to Spain some 30 years ago and never left. His scheme now runs at two venues near Madrid.

We English speakers - or "Anglos" - arrive first in the Spanish capital, to a welcome of drinks and tapas. The accents reveal a mix of nationalities (American, Irish, English, Australian and Singaporean) and ages (from 20s to 60s). What everyone seems to share, though, is a desire to experience foreign cultures and experiences. "I've recently moved to Spain after spending time working on cruise ships," says twenty-something American Jason Susinski. "My plan is to look for work in Madrid teaching English, but in the meantime, I've decided to do the Englishtown course."

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Next day, now on first-name terms, we make the three-hour bus journey to Valdelavilla, and meet the Spaniards who will gleefully become known as our "victims".

The mountain village in rural Soria was abandoned in the 1960s, restored several years ago, and is now home to the Englishtown project. Secluded, surrounded by mountains and forests, complete with cobble-stoned streets and rustic stone houses, Valdelavilla looks like a live postcard picture. The only blot is the flock of vultures wheeling lazily overhead.

"The vultures are there in case any of the Spaniards try to escape," jokes course co-ordinator Brian Bolles, as he welcomes the group. In fact, the area is actually a sanctuary for the birds, which are fed with waste meat from a nearby processing plant.

And so to work. Starting after breakfast each day, a series of one-to-one chat sessions runs until 2 p.m. and, after lunch and siesta, resumes at 5 until 8 p.m. The Anglo/Spanish pairing changes every hour and so keeps things fresh and interesting. Happily, classes are mobile; participants can sit down, go for a scenic stroll on the many trails around the village, or take mountain bikes for a short spin.

The first sessions may be a little challenging - what do you talk about - but friends, family, work, holidays, politics and philosophy all become subjects for discussion, helping you to get to know each other a lot better and to understand more about the Spanish way of life.

Side-splitting role play sessions, a couple of evenings of music and an excursion to the abandoned village of El Vallejo furthered the bonding within the group. By the end of the week everyone had exchanged e-mail addresses, phone numbers and those promises to stay in touch. From Anglos and Españoles, torturers and victims, to friends and amigos.

The next Englishtown programme is from January 14th to 21st, and they run through the year. In July and early-August, there's a programme for 15- to 20-year-olds. English speakers' costs - bar flights - are covered. A teaching background is not necessary. Further information: www.vaughanvillage.com or 00-34-915914840