WINE:Fancy a Bordeaux, but don't like the price? There's an alternative that can be every bit as good, writes John Wilson
JUST ABOUT EVERYONE is making better wine than they did a decade ago; but if I had to give a "Most-Improved Award" to just one region, it would probably go to the southwest of France. Arguably this is not one, but two or even three distinct districts, shoe-horned by the authorities into one uncomfortable mass. But for me, the southwest has some of the best-value wines to perk up the most jaded palate.
Over the past decade, a steady stream of quality producers has emerged, making distinctive, sometimes eclectic wines of real quality. The true lover of wine will find a treasure trove of grape varieties unheard of elsewhere, from Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu to Baroque and Fer. All have their own unique set of flavours, some startlingly good.
Today, we will look at one small sub-region. If you enjoy the red wines of Bordeaux (and I do), but find a great many too expensive (and I do), then consider the wines of Bergerac, a mere line on the map away, and historically the equal if not superior of its neighbour.
Bergerac uses pretty much the same grape varieties as Bordeaux. For the reds, there is plenty of Cabernet Sauvignon and its cousin Cabernet Franc too, often softened out by a good dollop of Merlot. The white grape varieties are similar too - Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, sometimes with a little Muscadelle blended in.
In fact, Bergerac curls around the eastern border of Bordeaux, and in terms of terroir could be considered a continuation of the region. But historically Bordeaux was Catholic, Bergerac Protestant, and the two lie in different political départments. The climate is slightly warmer in Bergerac, and the soils heavier, so they are not quite the same wines.
At the very cheapest level (and there is no shortage of cheap Bergerac), they can be fairly bracing. But in these parts, the working-man's lunch is a seared breast of duck, still bloody in the centre, served with a massive pile of shoestring frites. Not haute cuisine, but the perfect foil for a beaker of cheap, slightly tart, dry, tannic red wine. However, pay a couple of euros more, and you will discover superb wines that punch way above their weight.
Unsurprisingly, red Bergerac is very Bordeaux-like, but they are a bit fresher, sometimes fruitier, often with a pleasing earthiness. The white version is zingy and fresh if made entirely from Sauvignon; a bit of Sémillon adds flavours of grilled nuts.
Several wine companies have trodden the path to the southwest with great success; two online companies, Le Caveau (www.lecaveau.ie), and Wines Direct (www.winesdirect.ie) both have a well-chosen selection. The Wicklow Wine Company (www.wicklowwinecompany.ie) also has some really eclectic wines.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Château des Eyssards Cuvée Prestige 2004, 14%(€11.95). The Eyssards white featured as a bottle of the week a while back; at around €10, it is one of the best value wines in the crisp dry category. This red is a bit more expensive and a bit more serious, too. Made primarily from Merlot, this is a fairly full-bodied wine, rich in dark forest fruits, overlaid with spicy new oak. There are some well-integrated, but drying tannins on the persistent finish. I would suggest decanting this wine an hour or so before you want to drink it, and enjoying it with a good steak. Stockist: Wines Direct, 1890-579579, www. winesdirect.ie
Cuvée des Contis Bergerac Sec Blanc, 12.5%(€13.95). A blend of Sémillon and Muscadelle, this is a delicious mix of fine citrus acidity and smoothly textured yellow fruits, with hints of honey and grilled nuts. You could try this with salmon or another full-flavoured fish. Stockists: Avoca, Rathcoole; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Corkscrew, Chatham St; Listons, Camden Street; Enowine IFSC and Monkstown; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Mitchell's, Marley Park, Rathfarnham; Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Avenue, D7; French Flair, Tralee; Le Caveau, Kilkenny.
Château Court-les-Mûts 2004, Bergerac, 13%(€14.25). A more traditional rustic style with an earthy touch to the blackcurrant fruits, and a whiff of woodsmoke too. It finishes quite dry, so drink it with red meats, or a grilled duck breast. Court-les-Mûts also make an excellent sweet white from Saussignac. Stockists: Listons, Camden Street; Red Island, Skerries; Cases Wine Warehouse, Tuam Road, Galway; Probus, Oughterard; Wicklow Wine Company, Wicklow.
Château Les Hauts de Caillevel, Été 2005, Bergerac, 14%( €12.95). The ripest and richest of the reds here, with masses of sweet cassis and vanilla spice, and plenty of oomph. Beautifully-made stuff, with real depth and style. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook.
Château Tours des Gendres, Classique Rouge 2005, 12.5%(€11.95). Me and this wine have a history. I have long regarded it as one of the best-value wines around. It meets all of my criteria for a comfort wine - there is no massive explosion of extracted flavours and new oak, instead it's a seamless mouthful of creamy plum and blackberry fruits, concentrated but never big, with a refreshing acidity and a dryish finish. Not a wine to drink on its own, but great with a wide variety of red and white meats. If you are feeling flush, then you should also try the Goire de Mon Père from the same producer. At €17.95, it is streets ahead of most Bordeaux at more than €20. Stockists: Avoca, Rathcoole; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Corkscrew, Chatham St; Listons, Camden St; Enowine IFSC and Monkstown; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Mitchell's, Marley Park, Rathfarnham; Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Avenue, D7; French Flair, Tralee; Le Caveau, Kilkenny.
Clos des Verdots 2004, Bergerac, 13%(€11.39). David Fourtout produces a stream of impeccably made red and white wines. Mainly Merlot, with a proportion of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, this is a beautifully proportioned, all-purpose red with supple, succulent red fruits. Drink alongside most red and white meats. Stockist: Superquinn.
UNEARTH A BARGAIN
Boutique wine and food retailer Terroirs in Donnybrook, Dublin 4 will hold its annual sale from May 7th to 31st. They have a delightful Malbec from the Loire Valley that kicks in at 12% alcohol, and a delicious light Brouilly. Françoise and Séan Gilley have an unerring nose for quality French wines, so a visit will unearth plenty of further bargains.