Real mozzarella bears little resemblance to the tasteless stuff that you find on most pizzas, writes Hugo Arnold
The whey was slightly milky, and the large ball of mozzarella was skulking at the bottom of the carton. Easing it out was not easy; a spoon might have been useful, but I was too eager. A wobbling ball of good mozzarella is no easy plaything. It always looks as if it is about to collapse, but this never seems to happen.
Mozzarella is made by heating curd in water until it becomes elastic and forms a thread - pasta filata. This is then wound round and round to form a large ball, from which small pieces (mozzare) are cut off. The smaller versions, typically golf-ball sized, are called bocconcini.
Mozzarella frequently turns up on pizza, but this is rarely of the same quality, unless you are making your own pizza. Mass-produced industrial-sized balls of this unusual cheese are rubbery and tasteless. Break the real thing over a just-baked pizza and you will be transported.
So, do you slice it or tear it? I'm all for the latter approach, which yields rough globules to toss into a salad or use to lift a plate of red and yellow beetroot or roasted peppers. Tomatoes may be an obvious partner, but baby vegetables, from carrots to leeks, work just as well.
A plate of Parma ham, bresaola or other cured meat is a welcome accompaniment. Herbs are also a good partner for it when tossed with green leaves - rocket perhaps. Basil, parsley, mint and thyme are good, too.
You can stuff a meatball or hamburger with a little of the cheese. The meatballs make good finger food, particularly if your guests are caught unawares. The rich centre oozes forth, generating surprise and, usually, delight.
RECIPES SERVE FOUR
SALAD OF GLOBE ARTICHOKES, BUFFALO MOZZARELLA AND WATERCRESS WITH CAPER VINAIGRETTE
8 small globe artichokes
extra virgin olive oil
4 slices good country bread
1 tbsp capers, well rinsed
4 handfuls watercress
2 buffalo mozzarella, sliced
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp picked thyme leaves
Slice the tops off the artichokes and place them in a pan of boiling salted water. Cover with a lid smaller than the diameter of the pan, to hold them under the water, and boil for 10-15 minutes or until tender (prod with a skewer to check). Remove them from the pan and drain upside down until they are cool enough to handle. Trim the artichokes of all the tough outside leaves, and trim the stems well. Quarter or halve, depending on size, and remove the choke if necessary. (Or, if this all sounds a bit of a palaver, buy a jar of bottled, and preferably grilled, artichokes from a good Italian delicatessen.)
Drizzle a little olive oil on the bread and grill on both sides until brown and crispy. Combine the capers with four tablespoons of olive oil. Toss the watercress in a bowl with salt and pepper and two tablespoons of olive oil. Arrange this on four plates and scatter the artichoke pieces and mozzarella carefully among the leaves. Tuck the grilled bread underneath and spoon the capers and oil over the top. Drizzle a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar on each serving and scatter the thyme leaves on top. Season and serve.
CHARGRILLED FILLET STEAK, MOZZARELLA, ROCKET AND ANCHOVIES
500g fillet steak in one piece
olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
large handful rocket
2 buffalo mozzarella, sliced
8 small anchovy fillets, rinsed
balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp chopped parsley
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees/gas four. Lightly coat the meat in olive oil and season well with salt and pepper. Preheat a large ovenproof frying pan. When it is hot, seal the meat all over, then transfer to the oven and continue cooking for five minutes. Turn the oven off, open the door and leave the meat alone. This will give you rare steak. If you'd rather it were cooked for longer, adjust accordingly.
Saute the shallot for five minutes, or until softened but not coloured, in the oil left in the roasting pan. Remove from the heat, add the garlic and stir. Drain the shallots and garlic and toss with the rocket and a dressing of olive oil, salt and pepper. Scatter this over a flat serving plate. Slice the beef and arrange this, the mozzarella and the anchovy fillets on top of the rocket. Serve with a drizzle of balsamic and a scattering of parsley.
MOZZARELLA SANDWICHES
2 buffalo mozzarella, cut into slices
8 slices of good bread
8 sage leaves
milk
2 eggs
flour
vegetable oil
Trim the bread so it is a similar size to the mozzarella. Place one slice of bread on a surface, season the mozzarella generously with salt and pepper and then lay slices on top of the bread. Put two sage leaves on top of each piece of mozzarella and top with another piece of bread.
Pour a cup of milk into a bowl. Place the eggs in another bowl and whisk. Put a tablespoon of flour in a third bowl.
Dip the sandwiches in the milk briefly, then in the flour and then in the egg. Heat two centimetres of vegetable oil in a pan; when it is hot fry the sandwiches on both sides until golden brown. Serve with some salad and perhaps some sliced tomatoes.