Spain has always had a name for its hearty ripe reds, but there's a range of very tasty, eclectic, white wines too, writes John Wilson.
IT SEEMS that Spain can do no wrong these days; its footballers reign supreme in Europe, Spanish architects are sought out the world over and, earlier this month, Rafael Nadal won the most thrilling Wimbledon men's final in years. Its leading-edge cuisine is the talking point of the culinary world.
In the world of wine, it is not doing so badly either. Of all the European countries, it is Spain that has risen to the New World challenge, producing a wide range of consumer-friendly wines at every price point. Over the past decade a host of new wines, often made from indigenous grape varieties, have broken onto the world wine scene with amazing speed. At times it has all been too frantic; some areas have achieved national and international recognition too quickly, and have succumbed to the temptation to raise prices. But all over Spain spectacular new bodegas have been constructed, often by the aforementioned famous architects, and Spain is the favourite "new" wine on everybody's lips.
Next week, we will look at red wines; this week white. White wines? Spain has always had a name for its hearty ripe reds, but using vineyards along the cooler Atlantic coast, or taking advantage of higher ground, there is now a range of very tasty, eclectic, white wines, too. As with the red wines, there is no shortage of the international grape varieties, but the intelligent drinker will also seek out a number of very exciting wines made from local grapes unknown elsewhere.
The cool Atlantic coast of the Basque country would not seem to be the most promising site to make wine. A few years ago, the few remaining vineyards seemed destined to die out. Yet a mini-revival has taken place, aided by the growing reputation of Basque food. The main grape variety is Ondarribi Zuri, which you are unlikely to come across in any other vineyard across the world. The wines are light, clean and refreshing, with a wonderful clear purity of fruit. Not surprisingly, they go perfectly with the superb fresh seafood and fish that the Basques adore. I imagine the best place to drink it would be in a seaside restaurant in San Sebastián.
Further to the west, on the north-western tip of Spain, lies Galicia, with its beautiful verdant mountainous countryside. The climate is fairly cool here too, so the wines have a very seductive delicacy and freshness. Vineyard holdings are tiny, and often on steep hillsides, so prices are never cheap. The best-known region is Rías Baixas, and Albariño is the main grape variety. But do not pass up the chance to try wines from Ribeiro, Valdeorras or Monterrei; all are made with local grape varieties, and some are spectacularly good. Further inland lies Bierzo, better known for its reds, but today we feature a white wine. The Galicians match the Basques in their love of seafood, and their wines are a great match too.
The previous two areas are all part of the "Green Spain", the cooler Atlantic regions. Rueda lies much further inland, about two hours' drive directly north of Madrid. Perched up on a plateau, the climate is perfect for the slow ripening of white grapes. Verdejo is the local grape variety, capable of great things; it is often blended with the softer, fatter Viura, or Sauvignon Blanc.
Bierzo Val de Paxariñas Capricho 2007, 13%, €18.This is a quite delicious, refreshing, individual white wine, with pointed zesty lemon flavours on the nose and palate, backed up with some beguiling soft pear fruits. Try it with mussels or oysters.
Stockists:Listons, Camden Street; Lilac Wines Fairview; Fallon&Byrne, Exchequer Street; www.spanishwines.ie, Lilliput Stores, Manor Street; Bin No9, Goatstown
Rueda Trascampanas Verdejo 2007, 13%, €14.I find some Ruedas can be a bit over the top in terms of flavour; not so this example, with its restrained but very seductive soft ripe fruits, balanced perfectly by some pithy grapefruit notes. If you are tiring of Sauvignon, (and aren't we all?) this would be an interesting alternative. Stockists: Lilac Wines, Fairview; Just de Vine, Portmarnock; www.spanishwines.ie; Power&Smullen, Lucan; Dunnes Butchers, Donnybrook
Bizkaiko Txakolina Bodegas Itsas Mendi 2007, 12%, €16.99.Very attractive soft rounded pear fruits with good dry length. Not unlike a Muscadet, but with a character all of its own. Drink chilled with plain seafood.
Stockists:McHughs, Malahide Road and Kilbarrack Road; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Red Island Wines, Skerries; JM Vintners, Rush; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Deveney's, Dundrum; Lilac Wines, Fairview
Rías Baixas Adegas Valmiñor 2007, 12.5%, €16.95-€17.95.Soft ripe pear and apple fruits with a slight spritz, and some tangy citrus notes. A great match for pretty well any seafood, or will serve as an aperitif.
Stockists:Widely available from outlets including: D-6, Harolds Cross Road; Lilac Wines, Philipsburgh Avenue; Mortons, Dunville Ave. and Galway; Andersons, Glasnevin; McHughs Malahide Road and Kilbarrack Road; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Mitchells Glasthule and Rathfarnham; Supervalu Deansgrange and Ratoath; On the Grapevine, Dalkey & Booterstown