This week's bottles of choice for the festive event.
FISHY SCENARIO:Astrolabe Riesling (€16.99, from O'Brien's) has mouth-tingling acidity and aromas of apple and citrus.
REST-TIME:Meursault "En l'Ormeau", Yves Boyer-Martenot, 2005. Push the boat out with this beautiful Meursault made fromold vines in a strong vintage, with its nutty, buttery peachy fruit set against lime-rich acidity (€41.95, from Donnybrook Fair; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Mitchell's, Kildare St and Glasthule; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare).
MAINS:Should it be Bordeaux or Burgundy or another glass of the Meursault? Well, actually, this year we are going to New Zealand again. Felton Road's Pinot Noir 2006 (€39.99, from On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey; Jus De Vine, Partmarnock; Cabot & Co, Westport; Liston's, Camden St; Sweeney's, Glasnevin) is an intense silky layered array of red fruit with great balance and concentration - the equal of many a good Burgundy. The associated Cornish Point Pinot Noir, made by the same team, (€28.99) is a good alternative, as is Isabel Pinot Noir (€23.99, from Berry Bros, Harry Street).
SWEET SURRENDER:Usually I throw in the towel about now, worn out from cooking and balancing a glass at the same time. But perhaps we might clear some space for a glass of Grandjo Late Harvest Douro 2004 (€22.50, from Cellars, The Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road; Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Donnybrook Fair; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Bottle Shop, Goatstown; Hollands, Bray) with its honey and marzipan flavours and fine acidity, or even more reasonably, a glass of refreshing, honeyed Royal Tokaji Ats Cuveé Late Harvest 2005 (€12.99, O'Brien's). Or maybe we'll go mad and indulge in Château Sigalas-Rabaud 1997, a wonderful 1er cru Sauternes just coming into its velvety best (€50.95, from Berry Bros).