La Reserve de Léoville Barton, 2002, Château Bauduc 2006and Château du Gaby 2002, Canon-Fronsac.
La Reserve de Léoville Barton, 2002, St Julien, 12.5%, €33:Second wines can provide great value when, as here, they mimic the majesty of the real thing. Typically they are made from younger vines, but the classy firm blackcurrant-rich style is the same, even if the depth of flavour is a little shallower. From: O'Brien's branches.
Château Bauduc 2006, Bordeaux Blanc Sec, 12.5%, €17:Gordon Ramsey uses it as his house wine, Rick Stein has it on his list and I'll have another glass please. Gavin and Angela Quinney escaped from London loaded with dosh in 1999 and have sunk it and more into this Créon operation. It shows. This is a beautifully balanced blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc and barrel-aged Semillon, velvet in the mouth with mild citrus and a classy finish. From: Donnybrook Fare, Dublin 4; Hole In The Wall, Dublin 7.
Château du Gaby 2002, Canon-Fronsac, 13%, €24.99:The right bank strikes back with this seductive blend dominated by Merlot's warm, rich, plummy fruit, buttressed by soft tannins. The texture is rich but not overcooked and the finish elegant and very pleasing. From: Berry Brothers & Rudd, Harry Street, Dublin 2.