Tom Doorley's guide to some of his favourite markets, delis and food shops in London
Getting to know one of the world's great cities well is probably best done not by living there but by making countless visits, short and long, at different times of the year and for different purposes.
I've been visiting London since I was 12, and although I don't need a Tube map at this stage to find my way round, it's still a place where I will happily stumble on a new and unexpected neighbourhood, or discover a new vista.
Most of us engage with cities other than our own by staying in hotels and eating out. If you're a native Dubliner, for example, you only have to think for a moment how such an approach to our capital can skew the view. I firmly believe that if you go self-catering, and have to shop for food like the natives, you will end up with a much more intimate sense of where you are.
My family and I spend a week or two in London every year, generally house-sitting for friends, and over the years we have developed our food shopping trails and routines. It's a great city for people who like to cook, and what follows are a few highly personal suggestions as to how the visitor to London might like to get in touch with its non-restaurant food culture.
I'd be inclined to start by taking the Tube to Ladbroke Grove and strolling round to Books for Cooksat 4 Blenheim Crescent, W11 (00-44-20-72211992, www.booksforcooks.com), where friendly and helpful staff will help you find virtually any cookbook under the sun. The tiny kitchen tries out new recipes every day.
Across the road is The Spice Shopat 1 Blenheim Crescent, W11 (00-44-20-72214448), where you will find every spice and herb you could wish for. Buy some of its ready-mixed dukkah spice mix from North Africa and have it with olive oil and good bread.
Round the corner, in the Portobello Road market, you will find stall after stall selling fresh fruit and veg for prices that make the supermarkets look extortionate. Stroll northwards towards the Westway flyover and drop into Garcia'sat 248 Portobello Road, W11 (00-44-20-72216119), for good coffee and churros and stock up on the Spanish delicacies and very keenly-priced terracotta cookware.
Not far away is the Lisboa Delicatessenat 34 Golborne Road, W10 (00-44-20-89691052), which does lots of Portuguese delicacies, including what appears to be every possible part of the pig, cured and pickled.
For Italian delicatessen produce, you can't beat Soho. Our favourite port of call for prosciutto, salami, Parmesan and brilliant homemade pasta is I Camisa & Sonat 161 Old Compton Street, W1 (00-44-20-74377610), where they also do tubs of excellent sauces. Prices are very down-to-earth. The Algerian Coffee Storeat 52 Old Compton Street, W1 (00-44-20-74372480, www.algcoffee.co.uk), does great Lebanese coffee with cardamom.
For meat, head north to The Ginger Pigat 8-10 Moxon St, W1 (00-44-20-79357788, www.thegingerpig.co.uk), just north of Oxford Street and not far from Bond Street Tube station. Much of the meat here, and it ranges well beyond pork, comes from a farm in the Yorkshire Dales. There are also splendid terrines and pies on sale. Just down the road is La Fromagerieat 2-4 Moxon Street, W1 (00-44-20-79350341, www.lafromagerie.co.uk), which carries a large range of French and Italian cheeses in perfect condition. For British and Irish cheeses your best bet is the Neal's Yard Dairyat 17 Shorts Gardens, WC2 (00-44-20-72405700, www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk), near Covent Garden, where the excellence of the produce is matched by the enthusiasm of the staff.
Borough Marketat Southwark Street, SE1 (www.boroughmarket.co.uk) is a sort of Mecca for London food enthusiasts, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Amid all the bustle, it's worth seeking out a tiny and apparently anonymous stall selling artisan Spanish charcuterie. There is a plump salami called "the baby Jesus" which is a stunner. Otherwise try Brindisa for all manner of Spanish provender, and the busy seafood stall for very fresh fish. Restaurateur Sally Clarke has an outpost here selling excellent bread and cakes.
If you want to sample the world of the Jewish deli, head north. Panzersat 13-19 Circus Road, NW8 (00-44-20-77228596, www.panzers.co.uk) in St John's Wood is essentially a Jewish supermarket with a strong American accent. The real, traditional experience is to be had at Plattersat 10 Hallswelle Parade, NW11 (00-44-20-84557345) in Finchley, where you will find gorgeous gefilte fish and hand-sliced smoked salmon.
Finally, a visit to Waitrose(www.waitrose.com), which is by far Britain's best supermarket chain, can be a revelation. Apart from a superb wine selection, it does a remarkable selection of proper meat and poultry, including scrumptious free-range pork, its own range of readymade tapas, and a very impressive range of oils and vinegars. The best branch in central London is probably the one at Gloucester Road tube station in South Kensington.
WHERE TO STAY
Even if you intend to eat out, self-catering accommodation is more spacious than a hotel and generally cheaper. We stayed at Gloucester Park in South Kensington, which is run by the Cheval Group, a specialist in luxury apartment rental in central London. Rates vary depending on location and accommodation. See www.chevalgroup.com. For other self-catering possibilities www.visitlondon.com is a good starting point.