Can Chilean Syrah fulfil its huge potential and become a world-beater?
In 1990, Chilean wines represented 0.9 per cent of sales in the Irish market, a market then dominated by old-world giant France, with 54.7 per cent. Fifteen years later the Chileans are understandably happy with their 21 per cent share of the market, second only to that other new-world upstart, Australia, on 24.5 per cent. And while the Irish market is relatively small - Irish sales constitute 3 per cent of total export volume and 4 per cent of total value - Chile's success here has encouraged the country's exporters to try to repeat the formula elsewhere.
The Chileans achieved their success through competitive pricing and consistency. Raul Katz, of the major winery Viña La Rosa, underlined in Dublin recently the value of consistent quality, as Chile seeks to move up the value chain and get away from being perceived as cheap and cheerful. But consumers can be ruthless, and if prices rise faster than is deemed acceptable, the Chileans could be vulnerable to renewed attack from the old world.
So the Chileans are trying to emphasise the quality of their wines, and not just the value. They are also trying to create wines that are exceptional in themselves, that are true to their place of origin. That is why they have turned to Syrah. In 1996 there were 19 hectares of Syrah grown, all by the Errazuriz winery. By 2004 the figure was 2,754 hectares.
The wines vary according to where the Syrah is grown. The hot climates of Cachapoal and Maipo produce big fleshy wines, while wines from cooler areas - such as San Antonio and Limari - have more in common with the intense elegance of the Northern Rhône. There is also difference in the varietal's name; Errazuriz uses the name "Shiraz" but most other wineries have settled on "Syrah", preferring its old-world connotations. But all agree that Chilean Syrah has huge potential, possibly greater than any other varietal. As the vines mature over the next few years and as winemakers get a better handle on the grape, it will become clearer if Chile really has a world-beater in its vineyards.