Setting the scene for the big day
Christmas Day, potentially, is one of the great days of the year. The family regroups; there are no work or play distractions; there's goodwill in attendance and an abundance of food. And drink? Well that's what we're here for . . .
There are four main periods when a glass filled with promise fits the mood: ice-breaker, cool appetiser; big nosh and sweet dreams. Of course there are loads more opportunities for liquid inspiration but by then I'm away with the fairies. In keeping with the current economic climate there are two options, budget and non-budget.
ICE-BREAKER
Château Rives Blanques Blanquette de Limoux Southern France sparkler with real character (€26 from: McCabes, Blackrock; Fallon & Byrne; Redmonds, Ranelagh). Ascheri Moscato 2005 Perfect to start the day, it is slightly sweet, low in alcohol (5.5%) and will bring a smile to your face (€12.99, from: O'Brien's). Champagne Laurent Perrier ultra brut nv The red side of a budget, but what a fresh start to the day (€55 from: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Terroirs, Donnybrook; Redmonds; Fields, Skibbereen).
NO BUDGET: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (1998) Elegance personified (€150 from: Redmonds, Ranelagh; Thomas's, Foxrock; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Bradleys, Cork; Lynchs, Glanmire, Cork; Wine Centre, Kilkenny). Pol Roger Rosé Brut Extra Cuvée du Reserve Champagne (1999) Tempting red fruit and a soft captivating mousse (€75 from leading independents).
COOL APPETISER
Florent de Brie Chenin Blanc 2006 Wonderfully rich for the price (€12, from: Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Thomas's, Foxrock; Redmonds). St Hallett Poachers' Blend White 2005 Tropical fruit with a lemony kick (€12.49, from: Superquinn; The Vintry, Rathgar; Cheers, Bray; Kelly's, Clontarf; Harvest, Galway; Caulfields, Maynooth). Novas Chardonnay/Marsanne/Viognier Clean and vivacious organic blend (€13.99, from: O'Brien's). Chalker's Crossing Riesling Smart Aussie Riesling at a reduced price (€9.99, Superquinn).
NO BUDGET: Trimbach Clos St Hune 2000 The ultimate in Alsatian Riesling. Awesome (€90 from Greenacres, Wexford; Fallon & Byrne; Jus De Vine; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's, Hart's Corner). Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2004 Honeyed German gem (€24.50, from: McCabes; Redmonds; Fallon & Byrne). La Chablisienne Chablis 1er cru Vaulorent 2002 Lean, elegant and long (€25, from: Cheers, Delgany; Jus de Vine, Partmarnock; Gibney's, Malahide; Londis, Malahide; Kelly's Wine Vault, Clontarf; Mitchell's, Grange Road; Thomas's, Foxrock; Foley's, Sligo; Mortons, Galway).
BIG NOSH
Château de Pennautier, Cabardes Vibrant Lanquedoc blend (€12.95, from: Bradley's, Cork; Lynch's, Glanmire; McCabes; Redmonds). Pezat Bordeaux Superieur 2005 The new exciting style of Bordeaux (€19.95, from: Cheers, Delgany; Jus De Vine; Vine Blossom, Stoneybatter; Egans, Portlaoise; Next Door, New Ross; Uncorked, Rathfarnham). Roc-Long, Corbieres 2004 Red fruit, spice and loads of cherry (€12.99 from: Red Island Wines, Skerries; Vintry, Rathgar; No 9 Goatstown). Isabel Pinot Noir 2004 Cracking Kiwi Pinot (€23.99, from: Berry Bros, Harry St).
NO BUDGET: Mercurey 1er Cru les Ruelles. Château de Chamirey 2004 Brilliant Pinot at outstanding value (€31.95, from: McCabes; Fallon & Byrne; Redmonds). Château Bourgneuf 1999, Pomerol Little known but hugely impressive Merlot-dominated blend (€60, from: Fallon & Byrne; McCabes, Redmonds). Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2005, Otago, New Zealand. Another great NZ wine, earthy, lively and stylish (€32, from: McCabes, Blackrock, and 64 Wine, Glasthule).
SWEET DREAMS
Jaboulet Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2004 A tad predictable, but great value (€12.99, from: O'Brien's; McCabes; Centra; Superquinn; O'Keeffes, Kilkenny). Château Court-les-Mûts Saussignac 2001 Two-time dessert wine of the year winner (€16.95, from: widely available).
NO BUDGET: Aszu 4 Puttonyos. Tokaj Disznoko. Hungarian marmalade intensity (€28.95, from: McCabes; Redmonds; Fallon & Byrne). Klein Constantia Estate Vin de Constance 2001 (€55, Jus De Vine; Cellars Big Wine Warehouse; Mitchell's, Kildare St; Mortons, Ranelagh). Château Sigalas-Rabaud, 1er cru, Sauternes Feathery, fragrant and hugely intense (€50.95, from: Berry Bros).
After all that, you should be ready for some shut-eye, but those still sitting might fancy a glass of Warre's LBV 1995 (€29, widely available) or the same company's cool new Port blend called Otima (about €20, widely available) or Niepoort's Junior Tinto blend (€19.95, Wicklow Wine Co for details). Or indeed any vintage Port from respected shippers such as Dow, Taylors or the excellent Grahams.