When it reaches the Andes, where it twists and turns like cooked spaghetti, the road from the city of Mendoza is dotted with the remains of campfires: evidence of the country's passion for the asado, or cookout.
Top of Argentinians' barbecue list is beef, which comes in every shape and form, from rump to skirt, from intestines to kidneys. Rump steak, marbled with fat, is tender and full of flavour.
Recipe serves four
BARBECUED RUMP STEAK, AIOLI AND ROSEMARY POTATOES
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2 egg yolks
300ml vegetable oil
lemon juice to taste
4 large waxy potatoes
1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary
4 rump steaks, about 180g each
olive oil
1 tbsp finely chopped chives
Mash the garlic with a teaspoon of salt. Whisk in the egg yolks and add the oil, drop by drop initially, until the mixture emulsifies and forms a thick, heavy paste. You can then start to add the oil in a steady stream. As the mixture thickens, add a little of the lemon juice. Once all the oil is incorporated, adjust the seasoning and add more lemon juice if appropriate.
Peel - or not - the potatoes and cut into one-centimetre cubes. Blanch in boiling salted water for five minutes, then drain and dry them. Heat four tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan and saute the potatoes for 15-20 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove them from the heat and add the rosemary. Toss well in the oil.
Lightly glaze the steaks with olive oil and barbecue for two or three minutes each side, or until done to your liking. Toss the chives with the potatoes, then serve with the steak and the aioli.