WINE: The shelves are full of high-alcohol wines. Mary Dowey has some tips for choosing bottles that won't bring hangovers
Without any goody-goody types having to point it out, I know I drink far too much wine. It just sort of happens, all the virtuous spitting at daytime tastings more than cancelled out by dedicated indulgence in the evenings. The fashion for riper grapes and more alcoholic wines hasn't helped a bit, especially as the Irish seem to guzzle them with abandon. Slowly, very slowly, I have come to realise how much better lower-alcohol wines make one feel. From your e-mails I know many of you agree.
I never used to think that an extra degree or two of alcohol by volume (ABV) would make much difference, but it does, particularly when you're in the mood to enjoy a glass of wine with no food as a buffer or when you feel so tired that anything remotely strong makes your head spin after two sips. With alcohol levels unpleasantly high in so many wines, it's worth scrutinising the small print on labels.
What are the magic figures to look out for? Luckily, plenty of white wines still weigh in at 12 per cent ABV or less, even though many a New World Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc these days clocks up a bruising 14 or even 14.5 per cent. With reds, headache avoidance is more difficult. Their tendency towards a fuller body, accelerated by the super-ripeness trend, means the choice at 12.5 per cent ABV or under is quite limited.
Sparkling wines are often a good bet, especially in Europe, where ABV levels rarely exceed 12 per cent and are often lower, particularly in Italian Prosecco (about 11 per cent) and Moscato d'Asti (usually a very digestible 5 to 8 per cent).
Almost invariably, lower-alcohol wines come from cooler regions, where grapes ripen less fully than in sunbelts. Crisp whites of 12.5 per cent ABV or less come in the form of simple white Bordeaux (based on Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc), light northern Italians such as Pinot Grigio and Soave, blends of Sauvignon and Verdejo from Rueda, in northwestern Spain, and Vinho Verde, from northwestern Portugal. Loire Sauvignon Blanc, such as Sançerre or Pouilly-Fumé, is also much more likely to come within the target area than its lusher New World counterpart.
In coolish conditions, certain grape varieties have a particular tendency towards low alcohol. Take Riesling, a much-misunderstood grape that can produce thrillingly intense and exhilarating white wines registering a mere 8 or 9 per cent ABV in the Mosel region of Germany and a bit more elsewhere. Semillon is another white star; it is a grape that can produce fabulously mouth-filling white wines of only 11 or 12 per cent ABV, especially in Australia's Hunter Valley.
Rosés are a mixed bag, often veering to 13.5 per cent ABV (no surprise, given the warm regions from which so many spring) but sometimes less intoxicating, particularly if they hail from Bordeaux, the Loire or northern Spain. I think the headaches associated with rosé often have more to do with the speed at which it is downed on a hot day than the alcohol level, so, to play safe, hunt out a 12 per cent version - and sip it.
Red possibilities tend to be light- to medium-bodied. Loire renderings of Cabernet Franc, such as Chinon, Bourgeuil and Saumur-Champigny, often qualify. Light northern Italian reds, such as Valpolicella Classico, may also fit the bill. And let's not forget Bordeaux, where, although alcohol levels are rising to 13 or 13.5 per cent, especially for the swankier wines, it is still possible to find palatable reds at 12 to 12.5 per cent ABV.
Lower-alcohol wines won't be remotely beneficial, of course, unless you drink them in moderation. And moderation may be more moderate than you think. As a rough guideline, it means not drinking more than one unit (a small glass of wine) an hour and, preferably, enjoying your wine with food.
The so-called safe-drinking limits are 21 units a week for men and 14 for women - spread through the week, it is suggested, rather than packed into a crazy weekend, with at least one alcohol-free day. A glass of water for every glass of wine is recommended, both to counter dehydration and to slow down wine consumption. That all sounds rather boring - and of course people tolerate alcohol to varying degrees, making blanket rules questionable. But tuck them at the back of your mind anyway before you launch into the suggestions below.
LOVELY AND LOW IN ALCOHOL
SPARKLING
La Caliera Moscato d'Asti, Borgo Maragliano 2004 (5 per cent). How low in alcohol is this? A gentle, aromatic fizz to enjoy with meringue, ice cream or fruit desserts. Essential for the strawberry season. From Bubble Brothers, Cork; Fox's, Grafton Street; Urru, Bandon; €12.50.
Rustico Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Nino Franco NV (11 per cent). If some Proseccos are too soft and sweet for your liking, try this crisp, bracing version, whose delicate pear flavours emerge by degrees. Extremely drinkable. From Drink Store, Manor Street; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; Andersons, Glasnevin; McCabes, Mount Merrion; Gables, Foxrock; Cheers, Shankill; James Nicholson, www.jnwine.com (case sales only, may be mixed); about €21.95.
WHITE
Tortoiseshell Bay Semillon-Sauvignon, Australia, Casella 2004 (11 per cent). A light, zesty summer quaffer with lemon and pineapple tones at the right price. From No 1 Vintage, Churchtown; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; Baily, Howth; Le Caveau, Kilkenny; World Wide Wines, Waterford, €8.99-€9.99.
RED
Masi Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta 2003 (12.5 per cent). Not to be confused with student plonk, decent Valpolicella is wonderfully appetising with Mediterranean food. This juicy version is made for early drinking. From many SuperValus and Centras; O'Briens; Cellars-Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Callans, Dundalk; Ardkeen, Waterford; Joyces, Galway; Eldons, Clonmel; and others; about €11.50.
SWEET
Peter Lehmann Botrytis Semillon, Barossa 2002 (11 per cent). Sweet wines can be lethally alcoholic, but not this deliciously honeyed, citrusy, apricot-tinged Australian. The price is tempting, too. From Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; O'Neills, South Circular Road; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; O'Donovans, Cork; and others; half bottle about €9.99.
HOW TO GET A HEADACHE
Among the higher-alcohol wines are:
WHITE New World Chardonnay, Marsanne, Viognier, Southern Rhone blends, Alsace Riesling
RED Syrah/Shiraz, Grenache, Southern Rhone blends, Languedoc reds, Pinot Noir (New World especially), Zinfandel, Southern Italian reds, Amarone