I am often asked about my best experience while travelling and, more often than not, my mind jumps to Vietnam. I have been there twice. The first time my wife Sofie and I tentatively ventured out by ourselves, travelling from the Mekong delta, up through Ho Chi Min City, picturesque Hoi An, Hanoi and ending with a weekend spent in a homestay high in the mountainous region of Sapa, best known for its dramatic tiered paddy fields carved into the mountains over thousands of years by local tribes.
The first thing that strikes you when you arrive in any Vietnamese city is that there is food everywhere, from busy pho (noodle soup) restaurants, pop-up street corner eateries, street hawkers laden with baskets filled with fresh fruit and snacks, and the bustling food markets.
Initially it can be hard to know where to start, considering the constant hustle and bustle, but the best advice I’ve received is to eat where the locals eat.
Pigs’ ears
On my second visit I got to know our local guide TT in Hanoi thanks to his love of food. Most evenings were spent discovering his favourite street food stalls and whizzing between them on the back of a moped. We had snails cooked in a lemongrass broth, chewy pigs’ ears dusted with ground, toasted rice wrapped in rice paper with fresh herbs, and super spicy beef and papaya salad served in little plastic baby food bowls. A world of food was opened to us.
The real beauty of these roadside vendors is that they are experts at what they do. They tend to make one dish every day for years with little variation. Those who are successful at what they do have loyal customers and the pavements at their stalls overflow with hungry diners.
Street food plays a prominent role in Vietnam’s vibrant food culture and while there are plenty of dishes that are best enjoyed sitting on a plastic stool on a sweaty street corner elbow to elbow with the locals, the recipes I share here are ones that can be recreated at home with great success.
One involves an unusual method for aromatic, sticky and sweet caramel salmon. There is also a simplified version of the ubiquitous pho (pronounced "fu"), a noodle soup that is typically eaten for breakfast (if you do visit it's the instant solution to any jet lag you may suffer). Finally I have a recipe for bun cha, charred pork skewers with an aromatic paste served with sliced vegetables and rice noodles. Made at home, it makes a great weekend feast inspired by Vietnam's street vendors.
