We had just arrived in Malawi after a 24-hour journey from Dublin via London and Addis Ababa. In the back of a white jeep, we watched bleary-eyed as the landscape whizzed by. Bersson, our driver, informed us that it was scorched and arid after weeks of drought which has become commonplace here.
Malawi has suffered greatly due to climate change. Just last April Malawian president Peter Mutharika declared a national emergency over a food shortage that has affected nearly four million people. We travelled with a non-governmental organisation to see the work they do to aid and enhance the livelihoods of local communities throughout Malawi. Hunger and malnutrition is a major issue and one that has a long-term impact on the economic and social well-being of local communities.
Our first stop was to visit a group of mothers in Mchinji who were learning how to make meals with high nutrient values. As I was taught how to make a maize porridge enriched with ground peanuts, banana and pumpkin leaves, I was intrigued to see just how much emphasis was placed on maximising the nutrition in such a simple dish – something we take for granted at home.
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Maize is the staple grain of Malawi and the most common dish is a stiff porridge called nsima, which is eaten by rolling it into small balls served with “relishes” of meat or fish and softened greens.
The effects of El Niño have devastated the maize crop and we saw the harsh realities of this in one of the more remote villages we visited. The whole village welcomed us, singing traditional songs and dancing, but unlike our visit with the mothers in Mchinji, as soon as we began to speak to the villagers, it was obvious the tone here was different.
Despite applying conservation methods, the village had suffered a series of failed crops leaving them with only rations to live on. Speaking to Christopher Witimani, a local grandfather, through the language barrier I could feel the anger, frustration and utter desperation at the fact they were doing everything they could and still they were left in this terrible situation.
Just before we left the village, Christopher insisted that I visit a small vegetable garden at the back of his mud hut. A tiny but healthy crop of pumpkins was thriving. He told me that even though we were surrounded by empty fields, they were still hopeful of seeing better times and through these small steps they were still fighting. Though many issues surround food in Malawi, I was impressed to discover local dishes such as sweet potato doughnuts, which popped up in most of the markets we visited or dishes like chicken kwazukwazu, a baked chicken dish slathered in a spicy mango pickle, the recipes for which, I share here.
