IF A WILLINGNESS to change one’s mind in the light of new evidence is a sign of rationality or intelligence, then there may be hope for me yet. For many years I struggled to enjoy the red wines of Austria. The whites are personal favourites, wines that fit my tastes like a glove. But I always found that the reds had an off-putting combination of slightly green fruit and new oak.
Have I changed, or have they? Possibly it is a combination of the two, although I still like to think that better winemaking and a warmer climate is the major contributing factor. Whatever the reason, in recent months I have tasted a number of superb red wines from Austria that have been beautifully balanced and full of fruit. I will seek them out in the future. All have come from the Burgenland, a large area in the south-east of Austria, home to the country’s most full-bodied reds, as well as some of the world’s great sweet wines.
Some of my difficulties may have stemmed from the fact that Austria has its own three distinctive red grape varieties, with flavours unfamiliar to my palate. Zweigelt is the most popular red grape. It was created by a Professor Zweigelt at Klosterneuberger College in 1922, by crossing two other Austrian red grapes, Blaufränkisch and Saint Laurent. It offers the grower a number of advantages, including a resistance to frost and disease and a reasonably good crop from a variety of soils. The style of wine varies from light and fruity, not unlike Beaujolais, to powerful and deep. It is also seen as a very useful blending variety.
Blaufränkisch is the second most important red variety. Nobody seems quite sure where it came from, but the Fränkish bit refers to the Franks, suggesting a German origin. Blaufränkisch is full of dark berry aromas and fruit, usually with fresh acidity. It can be firmly tannic at times, too.
The third Austrian red variety is St. Laurent. August 10th is his festival day, the same day the variety is said to turn colour. St. Laurent has some similarities to Pinot Noir but is not a relation. It is deeper in colour, producing wines that are full-flavoured and on occasion robust, with piquant dark cherry fruits and good acidity. The acidity helps it to age gracefully.
All of the above may seem like a lot to take in, but I would certainly recommend that you experiment a little. If there is an overall style to Austrian reds, to me they all offer cherry or dark fruits, and a gently, refreshing acidity. They make perfect summer drinking and offer a real alternative to your existing tipple, wherever it comes from.
WINES OF THE WEEK
Blaufränkisch Claus Preisinger 2007, Burgenland, 12.5%, €15.95.Claus Preisinger is a young winemaker with a growing reputation for his red wines. This has lovely tangy cherry fruits, and an appetising freshness. Light and easy, it would be perfect with white meats, pork, chicken or veal. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Thomas's, Foxrock; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Sweeney's, Glasnevin.
Zweigelt Birgit Braunstein 2008, Burgenland, 13.5%, €16.95.Classic damson nose; soft and easy with a lovely quality of pure fruits. The acidity kicks in on the finish. This is a lovely wine. Light enough to drink by itself, but possibly better with food. Stockists: The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; The Wicklow Wine Co; Probus Wines Spirits, Fenian Street, Dublin 2.
Zweigelt Reserve Zantho 2007, Burgenland, 13.5%, €19.50.Concentrated ripe damson and blackcurrant fruits, a subtle smokiness and a light tannic kick on the finish. This would go very nicely with belly of pork, or possibly duck breast. A wine that delivers real value for money.Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Thomas's, Foxrock; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Sweeney's, Glasnevin.
St. Laurent Goldberg 2006 Birgit Braunstein, Burgenland, 13.5%, €25.50. Not cheap, but a very classy wine with delicate lifted aromas, and some spicy new oak to complement the piquant, minty dark forest fruits. Smooth and rounded, it slips down beautifully. Stockists: The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; The Wicklow Wine Co; Probus Wines Spirits, Fenian Street, Dublin 2.
TWO UNDER TWELVE
Groovey Grüner Veltliner 2009, Salamon, Niederosterreich, 13%, €11.99 (case price €9.59).A crisper style of Grüner with fresh melon and citrus fruits, and a tangy dry finish. This would be good with Asian-style prawns, scallops or sushi. Stockist: Oddbins
Le Temps des Gitans 2009, Vin de Pays de l'Herault, 13.5%, €11.49 (or 2 for €20).One of a range of organic wines from Mediterannean countries imported by Country Choice. This red from the south of France will warm you gently on a cooler summer's day. Soft, supple red fruits, no tannins, but a bit of body, and an easy finish. I cannot see anyone disliking this wine. Stockist: Country Choice, Nenagh.
BEER OF THE WEEK
Golden Valley Ale, The Breconshire Brewery, 4.2%, €2.99.Light, refreshing, golden ale with an attractive floral nose, and a pleasant bitterness on the finish. Served cool rather than chilled, this would make a great summer thirst-quencher.
