FRESH, LIGHT WINES, as featured last week, are fine as an aperitif or with seafood dishes. They may, however, get a little lost with richer fish dishes, as well as chicken and pork. Here we need a little more fruit and power to match the stronger flavours. Chardonnay is the obvious choice, and does work really well with creamy sauces.
If your tastes run to oaked whites, try them with even more powerful fare; cold salmon with mayonnaise is a personal favourite. But don’t forget the other white varieties – Grüner Veltliner from Austria; Viognier and southern French blends that include Marsanne and Roussane; as well as Tokaji for Hungary.
If you have fired up the barbecue, bigger whites are essential with grilled fish. Rosé is the next step up in terms of power. Some are light, almost like a white with added colour. The more full-bodied versions are perfect with summer salads and fishy stews.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Vinalta Chardonnay 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5%, €9.99A very decent, well-made wine with rounded, clean, tropical fruits. It is oak-free, but full of satisfying flavour. This should meet all tastes, and is priced to suit parties and other large gatherings. Stockist: Marks Spencer.
Château Dereszla Dry Tokaji 2006, 14%, €13.50We know Tokaji as a sweet wine, but it also makes some very good dry whites too. This has the rich honeyed flavours of Tokaji, but plenty of steely backbone and a bone dry finish. Distinctive and very keenly priced, I would try this with chicken dishes. Stockists: Mitchell Son, CHQ, Glasthule and Rathfarnham, Dublin; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2.
Mâcon-Villages Domaine de Roally 2006, 13.5%, €18.08The wines of Mâcon tend to be broader in style than many other parts of Burgundy, often with a touch of opulence that works wonderfully with richer fish, pork and chicken recipes. This wine makes the point perfectly. Lovely defined, pure fruits on the nose; luscious honeycomb and wax with some golden fruits and a solid mineral backbone. It all comes together nicely in a very classy wine. I tried it one night with roast chicken, the next with a rich fishy stew. Both were good, but the chicken combo was a class act. Stockist: Wines Direct, Mullingar.
Meursault "en l'Ormeau" Domaine Boyer-Martenot 2006, 13%, €45Not an everyday wine, but well worth investing in if you are planning a superior lunch with salmon or black sole, drenched in a buttery sauce, or even lobster. A very classy, rich but restrained nose, smoky with lovely creamy broad fruit, and plenty of lime zip, too. Serve lightly chilled to maximise enjoyment. Stockists: Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; McCabes, Foxrock and Blackrock, Dublin; Gibney's, Malahide; Mitchell's, IFSC and Sandycove, Dublin.
La Prendina Estate Rosé 2009, 12.5%, €11.29Lots of rose petal on the nose, followed by a zesty, refreshing palate with light raspberry fruits. A wine that pleases without really trying. Try with bouillabaisse or other fishy soups. Stockist: Marks Spencer.
Bordeaux Rosé Château Haut Rian 2009, 12.5%, €10.31Château Haut Rian is one of the best value producers of entry-level Bordeaux. The white is always brilliant value. This rosé is also exceptional value for money. Quite deep in colour, with a vibrant nose of ripe strawberries; the palate oozes with freshly crushed raspberries and strawberries. This packs a lot of flavour into a lightish wine. Probably better with richer dishes, but delectable on its own. Stockist: Wines Direct, Mullingar, www.winesdirect.ie, 1850-579579.
Domaine Begude Pinot Rosé 2009 Vin de pays d'Oc, 11.5%, €10.99The Begude Chardonnay is one of the best-value whites from the Languedoc, but the rosé, available in limited quantities, is also reliably good. Made from Pinot Noir, the Begude Rosé has a pale salmon colour, and delicious crunchy redcurrant and strawberry fruits. Light, crisp and dry wine that will sit very comfortably beside cold salmon, tuna or chicken dishes. Stockist: Superquinn.
Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Rosé 2008, 12.5%, €14.99An earlier vintage of this wine convinced me that I would be willing to pay more than €12 for a bottle of rosé. The 2008 is a worthy successor, a delicate wine, very pale in colour, with elegant, light, floral fruits and a bone dry finish. Almost a white wine in style, with strong mineral acidity and great length. I would serve this with smoked salmon, tomato salads, salade niçoise, or prawns in a tomato sauce. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Market 57, Westport; The Wine Room at No 1 Pery Square, Limerick; Cabot Co, Westport (www.cabotandcompany.com).
BEER OF THE WEEK
Sierra Nevada Glissade 2010 Golden Bock, 6.4%, €3.29 per 350ml bottleSierra Nevada is one of the best-regarded breweries in the US, producing a variety of interesting full-flavoured beers of real character. The Glissade is a seasonal vintage-dated beer that is released each spring. Medium to full-bodied with a lovely rich textured smoothness and a light maltiness. Very stylish beer to drink by itself, or with firm cheeses. Stockists: Specialist beer shops.
