You can't beat bubbles to get the party going, and it doesn't need to be Champagne, there are cheaper alternatives that will hit the spot, writes JOHN WILSON
On New Year’s Eve, tradition dictates that something fizzy be drunk. You may be heartily sick of the pronouncements of economists, but could I ask you to listen to one more? The dying words of John Maynard Keynes are alleged to have been “My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink more Champagne.”
The Champagne region certainly produces the best sparkling wine in the world, but the really good examples are very expensive. There was a flurry of special offers over Christmas, and if you can still find a bottle of Taittinger in Tesco, O’Briens or other outlets at under €30, it’s an absolute bargain. If not, Lidl’s Comte de Brismand Champagne (€17.99) outscored many well-known labels, including Lanson, Moët Chandon and Veuve Clicquot in a recent Which? magazine taste test. I enjoyed it although I thought the Champagne Bissinger 1er cru (€22.99) was distinctly better.
Leaving these to one side, I find that cheap Champagne is invariably disappointing, and I would always look to other regions if I needed a budget sparkling wine. I have mentioned Jacob’s Creek many times before and it remains a favourite, but Australia now offers plenty of really well-priced sparkling wines. Most will not have the complexity of a good Champagne, but they make up for it with plenty of exuberant fruit. Our passion for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has persuaded some producers to create a sparkling version; if you like one, you will probably enjoy the other. Prosecco offers sweet fruit and remains a favourite for many. My advice would be to pay at least €12 and probably more. It is also worth taking a look at the back label. A Spumante has more bubbles than a Frizzante, and therefore attracts a higher rate of duty, but is usually superior in quality. The rest of Europe produces a wide range of sparkling wines. Cava is probably the most popular after Prosecco, but France has plenty to offer too, usually closer in style to Champagne. Look to the Loire, Alsace and Limoux for the best examples.
The addition of a drop of Crème de Cassis to make a kir royale, some fresh orange juice to create a buck’s fizz, or even fresh peach juice for a bellini, is a waste of good Champagne, but will quickly hide any shortcomings in an inexpensive sparkler. Just make sure to pour the mixer in before the fizz.
Marquis de Plagne Crémant d'Alsace Brut NV, 11.5%, €7.99 (down from €9.99)Remarkably good given the price; light zippy green fruits and a nice refreshing finish. You won't mistake it for a Champagne, but then you won't buy Champagne for €7.99. Stockist: Lidl
Philippe Michel Chardonnay Crémant de Jura 2008, 12%, €9.99This has featured before, but remains one of the best-value bottles of inexpensive fizz in the country; light crisp green apple fruits, good acidity and a dry finish. Drink on its own or as a base for a cocktail. Stockist: Aldi
Griffith Park Sparkling White, Australia NV, 11.5%, €10.99This is a new arrival in Ireland, and very welcome too; nice creamy strawberry, apple and lemon fruits with a very decent finish. Bottled fermented and made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as is Champagne, this is a very drinkable bottle of fizz. I also tried a very decent rosé version. Stockists: SuperValu, Centra
Wolf Blass Red Label Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV, 11.5%, €16.39This is the biggest and richest of the four wines, showing nice mature broad flavours, and good length. The palate has ample ripe creamy raspberry and strawberry fruits and a nicely rounded finish. Stockists: Dunnes Stores, SuperValu, Superquinn, Centra, Molloys.
