WINE:IS POOR CABERNET FRANC destined always to be the bridesmaid, but rarely the bride? You will certainly have tasted this variety if you drink Bordeaux, but its cousin Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot always seem to get the limelight. This is very unfair on poor Cab Franc, a grape of real quality, and a vital part of many Bordeaux blends.
There it is found more often on the right bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon does not always ripen fully. In Saint Émilion it forms the backbone of all of the great wines, reaching its apogee in Château Cheval Blanc, where it makes up over 50 per cent of the blend. But over in the Médoc, it still forms an important part of the blend that make up the top wines too.
But it is only in the Loire valley that Cabernet Franc is allowed star billing. Chinon, Bourgeuil, St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, Saumur and Saumur-Champigny are the best-known regions, and produce some stunning wines, but you can also find some very tasty vin de pays at rock-bottom prices. In the past, it could be a risky purchase. Good vintages of the wines were great, but that only happened one year in five. Wines from the other four years were often thin, green and herbaceous. However, thanks to improved viticulture (and possibly global warming, too) there are very few bad wines now. Good Loire Cabernet Franc has wonderful juicy, almost piercing fruit. Wines made from vines grown on gravel or sandy soils tend to be more perfumed and light, those from chalk soils more structured and long-lived. Cabernet Franc is also responsible for most of those delightful pale summery rosés, to be served chilled on sunny days.
At entry-level the wines are light in alcohol, pleasantly fruity, with a refreshing acidity. They make great summer wines served lightly chilled. Try them with pâtés, charcuterie and cold meats. They also go really well with salmon. Moving up in price, you will find some of my favourite wines, concentrated yet elegant, with a distinctive flavour of pencil-shavings and a beautiful quality of pure summer fruits. Give the best a decade or more, and you will be in for a real treat; they age magnificently.
Time did not allow me to pick up any Chinon from Domaine Bernard Baudry, but I would certainly recommend his wines as being amongst the very best in the region. They are imported by On the Grapevine in Dalkey and Cabot Co in Westport. I have also featured the excellent wines of Domaine Mabileau before. Otherwise the wines below include most of the star attractions of a very under-rated grape variety.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Alain Bruneau Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil La Chevalerie 2008, 12.5%, €12.95 (€11.95 by the case).Some cool dark fruits on the nose, with supple easy plum and blackcurrant fruits. Light and fresh, this would be perfect lightly chilled on a summer's day. Serve with cold meats and other charcuterie. Stockist: Cases Warehouse, Galway, cases.ie.
Yannick Amirault Bourgeuil 2006, 13%, €18.20.Amirault is one of the most highly regarded growers in Bourgeuil. Sheridans Cheesemongers has a number of different cuvées available, all of which are worth a try. This has some structure, with a good ripeness and attractive maturity, and a light tannic bite on the finish. pair with lighter meat dishes – pork or chicken would be good. Stockists: Sheridans Cheesemongers; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2.
Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée Terroirs 2007, 12%, €17.99.The Joguet estate is another with a great reputation. His best cuvées age wonderfully for a decade or more in good vintages. The Cuvée Terroir is his entry-level, and well worth trying out. Light in alcohol, but a lovely easy wine with fresh summer fruits and a herby touch. Perfect on a summer's day, on its own, or with lighter meats. Stockists: James Nicholson, jnwine.com; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh, Dublin 6; Lilac Wines, Fairview, Dublin 3.
Domaine Guiberteau Saumur 2005, 13.5%, €29.50.The most expensive wine in the tasting, but one of real class. Some clove spice on the nose with dark fruits; smooth and concentrated, with a lovely ripe centre-palate. There are plenty of lingering tannins, too, and great length. You could drink this now with pork dishes, or lay it down for a year or two. Stockist: Terroirs, Donnybrook, Dublin 4, terroirs.ie.
TWO UNDER €12
Duc de Mornay Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet 2008, 13%, €11.95.A ripe forward nose leads on to green apples and a distinctive grapefruit note, balanced by some very tasty rich pear fruits. A wine that over-delivers at the price, and will provide great summer drinking. Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Mitchell Son, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Sweeney's, Glasnevin. 9; Red Island, Skerries, Co Dublin; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Deveneys, Dundrum, Dublin 14; Bin No.9, Clonskeagh, Dublin 6.
Perolla 2008, San Felice, Maremma Toscana IGT, 13%, €9.95.A supple, rounded fruit-bomb with surprisingly good concentration of juicy ripe cherry and rich plum fruits. There is plenty of spice there, too, and very good length. This would work very well with medium-bodied meat dishes. Stockist: O'Briens
BEER OF THE WEEK
Goose Island IPA, Chicago 35.5cl bottle, 5.9%, €2.99.An Indian pale ale that is full of flavour; lots of fruit, a drying maltiness and an intensely hoppy finish. Probably best with food, maybe pork or chicken dishes. Stockists: Deveney's, Dundrum, Dublin 14; Remond's, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; The Salt House, Galway; Martin's, Fairview, Dublin 3; World Wide Wines, Waterford; McHugh's, Malahide and Kilbarrack.
