Light, white wines for laid-back summer drinking in the garden, writes JOHN WILSON
IT WAS DIFFICULT to muster enthusiasm to write about summer wines until the sun actually showed its face and the temperature climbed a little. Only in the past few days has it started to feel like summer. We have had our first meal outdoors, as well as several aperitifs sitting out in the evening sun. Over the next few weeks, I will take a look at a variety of summer wines to suit all occasions and tastes. But today it is the turn of lighter whites.
There are few more pleasant things than sitting out in the dying sun at the end of a day’s work with a glass of nicely chilled wine. Throw in a few nibbles and you have one of my favourite moments in life. With one exception (sherry) I invariably go for unoaked white wines that are low in alcohol. This can change once you sit down to eat; lighter fish and salad dishes are usually best with a lighter white, but the bigger the food, the more powerful the wine needs to be. All of the wines below will serve well as a pre-dinner glass, although they would be equally at home with lighter fare. I have excluded Sauvignon Blanc, not because I don’t like them, but there will be a full column on the variety shortly.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Terraze della Luna Pinot Grigio, Trentino 2009, 12.5%, €7.50 (down from €14.99)We are awash with a flood of cheap, anodyne Pinot Grigio in this country. Most of them are drinkable, but little more. The Terraze della Luna is streets ahead of the crowd, with masses of plump, rich fruits. On special offer at this price for a few weeks, this could be the best value Pinot Grigio in the country at the moment. Stockist: Superquinn
La Goya Manzanilla, Delgado Zuleta, 15%, €8.95 per half-bottleThere are few finer things in life than a glass of chilled Manzanilla sipped alongside a plate of olives, cheese, jamón Ibérico and other Spanish goodies. It is a brilliant foil for crab, too. This shipment of la Goya was bottled very recently, which might help explain the explosion of fruit, grilled nuts and salty brine in a captivating, crisp, thirst-quenching wine. If you cannot find this one, Marks Spencer and Tesco have decent Manzanilla. Stockists: 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Lilac Wines, Phibsboro; The Wicklow Wine Co; The Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Liston's, Camden Street; Ennis's, South Circular Road; The Wine Boutique, Ringsend; Dunne's Butchers, Donnybrook.
San Felice Perolla Vermentino Maremma Toscana IGT 2009, 13%, €9.99Tropical in style, with ripe pineapples and bananas, in a pleasantly rich style. An all-purpose white, and good value. Stockist: O'Briens
Saladini Pilastri Falerio, Marches 2008, 13%, €10Quite neutral on the nose, but a lovely light wine with delicate minerality and green fruits. Try it with mussels. Stockists: 64 Wine; Lilac Wines; Sweeney's.
Terrana Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2008, 12.5%, €10.50Trebbiano frequently tastes a little bit too neutral, but this has very moreish ripe peachy fruits. Great party wine. Stockists: 64 Wine; Lilac Wines; Sweeney's.
Cuvée Prestige de l'Ormarine, Picpoul de Pinet 2008, 13%, €12.50Picpoul de Pinet is the Muscadet of the Languedoc, partnered locally with oysters and other crustaceans. I recommend doing the same with this surprisingly concentrated dry white, with its attractive green fruits and lovely citrus bite. Stockists: Red Island Wine, Skerries; Gibney's, Malahide; McHugh's, Kilbarrack and Artane; Sweeney's; Deveney's, Dundrum; Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Liston's; Mitchell's, Rathfarnham; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Wicklow Wine Co.
Max Ferd. Richter Zeppelin, Mosel 2008, 10%, €13.95Take a seat on the patio. Pour yourself a glass of Zeppelin, pausing to admire the art deco label (this wine was served on the Zeppelin in the 1920s). Then enjoy the light apple aromas, the ripe pear and peach fruits, set off perfectly by just enough firm acidity. You will be surprised at how quickly an entire bottle can disappear, as you contemplate life and its mysteries. Stockists: Bin No 9; Morton's, Ranelagh; Mitchell's; Redmond's; Corkscrew; 64 Wine; Red Island Wines; Gibney's; McHugh's; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; On the Grapevine; The Wicklow Wine Co.
Impulse Riesling, CH Berries, Mosel 2008, 11.50%, €14.90Another Riesling from the Mosel, but a different style. It has similar lifted floral aromas, but richer exotic fruits, cut through perfectly by a crisp acidity. There is a little residual sugar, but it works perfectly. Try it with crab, or with Asian food. Stockist: Probus, Oughterard and Fenian Street, Dublin 2
Soave Calvarino, Pieropan 2007, 12.5%, €24.99I have spoken highly of Pieropan before; this is the latest vintage from his single vineyard, Calvarino. It is a little closed still, but has refined, slightly honeyed, rich fruits, and a crisp citrus too. A subtle, delightful wine. I know it is expensive, but if you are having a posh lunch with shellfish, this would go down a treat. Stockists: World Wide Wines, Waterford; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street; Sweeney's: The Wine Boutique; 64 Wine; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; the wineshop.ie.
BEER OF THE WEEK
Ruddles County Ale, 4.7%, €2.99 for a 50cl bottleContinuing the summer theme, a beer to enjoy in the summer months. A classic English ale: lightly hoppy, with a nice cut of acidity. It won't bowl you over with flavour, but enjoyable lightly chilled, and better than most commercial lager. Stockists: Available periodically from specialist off-licences. jwilson@irishtimes.com
