You don't have to spend a lot of money on wines to go with grilled foods, a light red at a good price works best. Just don't make the mistake of letting the wine get warm – even the reds, writes JOHN WILSON
AT THIS STAGE I am a little weary of all the clichés about men and barbecues: the testosterone, the burnt sausages, the raw chicken. As someone who looks after just about all the culinary affairs at home, I am perfectly capable of barbecuing a few burgers and a whole lot else besides. I am sure that I am not alone. Grilling meat on a real barbecue (and it should be charcoal) is not rocket science.
Nor is it an exclusively male pursuit. If you can cook, you can barbecue. If not, perhaps leave it to somebody who can. I love barbecues and they are a great way of avoiding making a pile of dirty baking dishes and saucepans.
On holiday each year, we eat grilled meat, fish or vegetables with a green salad just about every night. It is not difficult to roast whole chickens or large pieces of beef, pork and lamb. You just need a hood on the barbecue. This summer I will be sharing a house with my brother-in-law, the family barbecue king, who roasts his turkey for Thanksgiving each year, so I hope to learn more. I am told that whole fish is his latest speciality.
Most articles on barbecue wines focus on big rich reds, which is not a bad idea if you are serving burgers, steak or other red meats. But do keep your marinades, coatings and dips in mind. Spicy food does not go well with tannic wine, and any sweetness can make wine taste thin and sharp. I prefer a less robust red with my meats, something medium-bodied and rounded without too much alcohol.
It is not just the Americans who enjoy the smell of burning coals, the Spanish love their asado, whether it is lamb cutlets grilled over vine cuttings (great with young Rioja) or whole baby lamb (perfect with Ribera del Duero). The Argentines head straight for malbec, and the Aussies would probably turn to a shiraz, sometimes even the sparkling version. But anything red from the Languedoc or southern Rhône will do equally well.
These days, the more adventurous of us are equally happy to try out white meats as well as fish and Mediterranean vegetables. With these, I suggest you go for a medium-bodied white wine with plenty of fruit, or a fairly rich style of rosé. You could always serve a crisp dry white or rosé before the meal, and then move on to something more substantial later.
If eating outdoors, make sure to keep the wines cool, and not just the whites. Any red wine warmed by the sun will taste soupy and alcoholic.
I have seen articles in American journals arguing in favour of fine wine with your barbecue. I have never tried it, but I cannot see it working too well. It’s best to save your best bottle for fine dining and go for something less expensive with the barbecue.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Laurent Miquel Chardonnay Viognier 2010, 13%, €6.99This unusual blend works very nicely, both varieties contributing to a lovely fresh but rounded white wine with soft pear and peach fruits. This would go very nicely with fish, grilled vegetables and lightly spiced chicken. Great value for all kinds of summer drinking. Stockists: Dunnes Stores
Torbreck Woodcutter's Semillon 2007, Barossa Valley, 14%, €12.99I can just imagine Dave Powell of Torbreck sitting down to a glass of this with a large plate of barbecued prawns. In a few years, it has taken on a lovely smoky tang to complement the rich melon fruits and refreshing acidity. It would be great with charred chicken too. Stockists: O'Briens
Viña Pilar Ribera del Duero Crianza 2006, 14%, €14.40Having tasted a number of average Ribera del Duero recently, I was very pleased to come across this wine. It has excellent intensity of rich dark fruits with a subtle, leathery, meaty background and good length. Big enough but not a bully. I would decant it an hour or so before serving coolish with red meats. Stockists: Gibney's, Malahide; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, Co Cork, karwigwines.ie; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; JJ O'Driscolls, Ballinlough, Co Cork.
Familia Cecchin, Malbec, Mendoza 2008, 13.5%, €17.55A natural wine, made without the addition of sulphur, and also without the lavish use of new oak. Medium-bodied with delicious pure damson and savoury dark berry fruits, this would make perfect barbecue fare for red meats. Stockists: Le Caveau, Kilkenny, lecaveau.ie
Doña Paula Los Cardos, Malbec 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, 14%, €9.99Light primary dark fruits with plenty of oomph to back it up, and a smooth finish. A good all-rounder to drink with most meat dishes. Very well-made wine, although if you are feeling flush, an extra €3 will get you the Doña Paula Estate Malbec, which is even better, a rich satin-smooth wine overlaid with new oak. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Donnybrook Fair; McCabe's wine shop at The Gables, Foxrock; Holland's, Bray; Lilac Wines, Fairview, Dublin; Boggan's, Wexford; Tesco.
La Linda Malbec, Mendoza, 13.5%, €11Argentina is starting to make some seriously good malbec at unbeatable prices. This is a great value medium- to full-bodied red with plenty of dark loganberry fruits and black chocolate. Perfect with red meat or pork. Stockists: Widely available nationwide
Beer of the week
Brew Dog Punk IPA, 5.6%, €2.29 for a 330ml bottle Instead of tasteless lager before your barbecue, why not try out a bottle of this wonderfully fresh crisp lemon-edged hoppy dry ale? A real thirst-quencher with plenty of flavour.
