Cold weather demands comforting food. The best way to keep warm, I find, is to insulate from the inside out. It’s time to stock up on all of those good carbohydrates for the winter.
This is not the time to ban carbohydrates or fat. Whole foods such as potatoes shouldn’t be shunned in place of highly processed “healthier” alternatives. Give me a baked potato any day; we have a rich history together. A big bowl of creamy mash can make a grown Irish man or woman cry, especially if there’s a golden pool of butter hidden in the centre. Potatoes speak to us in a way no soba noodle can, so it’s good to embrace that every now and again.
Carbohydrates have acquired a bad reputation in recent times. Slow-release carbohydrates are best: those that are low on the glycemic index. Regular potatoes are starchy, and that means they can convert to sugar faster in our bodies, but once in a while they are exactly what is needed, I believe. They are a whole food, so nutritious, and this recipe is especially so because it involves eating the skin too. Sweet potato is the low glycemic-index alternative here, but these will have been flown in from as far away as the United States and won’t taste the best with smoked salmon.
Ultimately food is fuel. It is what we need to keep us going, and it dictates how we feel, be it energised from freshly made juices, soothed by honey-laced warm milk or happy and satisfied from baked potatoes. Food is to be enjoyed. So instead of adopting a restrictive approach, it is time to broaden our palates. Let 2015 be the year we knock back wheatgrass shots like yogis and learn to love celery. For now, though, it is time to eat more, not less.
To make this dish you will need to be prepared and buy the right things. Food shopping can be a chore, but getting to a farmer’s market at least once a fortnight can reinvigorate even the most jaded shopper. Large bunches of earth-covered carrots, beautiful crusty breads, brown speckled eggs and farmhouse cheeses will all restore your faith in food and inspire you to cook beautiful, nourishing recipes.
Cooking is therapeutic: the act of peeling, chopping, stirring and whisking can all calm and centre a person after a long day. Making your own food from scratch is good for the body and the mind. It’s a win-win situation.
This recipe is ideal for all of those smoked-salmon trimmings you may have left over during the holly season. It’s just as nice with smoked mackerel or hot smoked salmon. I am a big fan of dill and have been adding it to everything lately. Ideally you should buy fresh dill, but the dried variety will be fine too, or else use flat-leaf parsley.
Baked potatoes usually take more than an hour to cook, but this method speeds up the baking time considerably. Simply cut each potato in half, lengthways, score across the cut surface and then bake. It’s a method I first learned from a Yotam Ottolenghi recipe where the aubergines are halved and scored the same way.
Mealtimes over the holiday period are often staggered and unpredictable, so it’s always good to have some basic vegetables in the house to whip up a dinner such as this: one that proves it is possible to have a gorgeous baked potato supper in less than an hour, leaving you nourished and happy.
SMOKED SALMON BAKED POTATOES: SERVES 4
The five ingredients
- 4 medium baking potatoes
- 200g smoked salmon trimmings, sliced into small bite-sized pieces
- 2tbs dill, finely chopped
- 1tbs wholegrain mustard
- Mixed salad leaves
From the cupboard
- 25g butter
- Olive oil and balsamic vinegar or lemon juice to dress the salad leaves
Method
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Halve the potatoes, then score the cut sides with a criss-cross pattern so that they cook more quickly. Bake for 30-40 minutes.
Preheat the grill. Scoop the cooked potato out of the skins into a large bowl. Set the skins aside. Gently mash the potato with the butter. Stir in the smoked salmon, parsley and mustard. Season to taste. It shouldn’t need any or much seasoning, as the salmon and butter are salty. Return the mixture to the potato skins. Grill for five minutes or until crisp and golden. Serve with a mixed green salad.
Every Thursday we’ll tweet the five ingredients from @irishtimeslife so you can have them ready for Friday. Email givemefive@irishtimes.com with your suggestions for recipes.
