The last of the season’s elderberries are hanging from the trees. I’m surprised the birds haven’t eaten them by now. Everything seemed to be late this year. Spring was late; autumn was late. It’s nearly November and I can still see a few flowers on the random rosehip bushes as I walk to work. I collect whatever berries I can and pickle them in warm apple cider vinegar and a little honey. They’ll be ready in a few weeks, but at least they’ll keep for the entire winter.

Venison has just started coming in and I’m ready to roast a shoulder or a leg. For a stew or even for some sandwiches in the pub. We all talk of pulled pork but what about pulled venison? Surely that would make a fine autumnal sandwich. Maybe with some juniper berries and pan-fried wild mushrooms?

Caramelised

To prepare the shoulder I season it liberally with salt and place it in a suitable oven tray. I roast it at 220 degrees Celsius until it’s nicely caramelised. This will help the flavour. Remove the shoulder piece and place in a deep oven dish. Cover with a mixture of white wine and chicken stock. Add a handful of juniper berries and some roughly chopped vegetables (onion, leek, carrot and celery). Cover with some tinfoil and slow cook for at least 4 hours at a temperature of 160 degrees.

You can go lower if you like (120 degrees or 140) but be aware you’ll need to add about two hours each time. The slower and lower you cook the shoulder the moister and tender the meat will be. Too much heat stresses the meat (yes, meat does get stressed) and this causes loss of moisture.

When your shoulder is tender as hell, remove from the liquid and allow to cool enough so that you can handle it. Strain the liquid and place back on the hob and reduce by half. Flake all the meat into strips and then cover with the reduced liquid. At this stage you can add a few herbs – chives or parsley are nice. You’re ready to make your autumn sandwich.