With 'the Volvo' sailing into Galway Bay, the City of Tribes has yet one more festival to lure visitors to party on down. MAUREEN KENNELLY, organiser and survivor of the recent Cúirt Festival, sets the scene
PEOPLE LOOK AT YOU with envy when you tell them you live in Galway. They talk wistfully about the sense they get heading west when the light lifts and all suddenly seems well with the world. At the risk of sounding self-satisfied you try to think of a few drawbacks. But there aren’t any; this might well be the most perfect place to live in Ireland.
While Galway, of course, has been visited by post-boom realities like everywhere else, the city’s inherent cheerfulness, combined with the promise of summer events, means that the festive atmosphere is well and truly taking hold. Even Galway’s notorious traffic has eased somewhat.
The sailing crews are gearing up for a massive celebration the likes of which has never been seen before. But Galway is well used to celebrating and it excels at festivals. Long after "the Volvo", as we've taken to calling it, has been and gone, the city has a slew of brilliant celebrations of the arts. Last month we survived what US poet Jane Hirshfield called "the banquet of writing" that was Cúirt, and July sees the biggest annual arts celebration with Galway Arts Festival. Exciting whispers from the camp promise a visit by the groundbreaking Kronos Quartet, with full programme details to be announced on June 2nd.
Before that, film types will descend on the city for the annual Film Fleadh, with its raucous late-night gatherings at the infamous rowing club. Later in the year, Galway demonstrates that it values its younger denizens as much as us grown-up folk, when the always interesting Baboró International Arts Festival for Childrenhappens in October, closely followed by the fledgling Galway Theatre Festival, which takes over the atmospheric Nun's Island Theatre.
Why is Galway so good at festivals? Maybe it’s to do with the abundant spirit that has the charming Amelia of Artisan restaurant get on first-name terms with Pulitzer prize-winning poets, feed them gloriously and attend their readings at Cúirt, all apparently at the same time. A Cúirt writer, expressing her thanks, recently wrote “please also thank the restaurants”. Is it the curious and wonderful dynamic whereby once you’ve spent half a day at a festival, you suddenly find yourself on smiling and nodding terms with strangers who you now regard as fellow travellers at the cultural feast in question?
The unquestionable sociability of Galway is key to all this, and we’re unusually well served by a range of fine eating and drinking establishments. So here are some pointers on how to make the best of your Galway experience.
As the mainstay of the city's pub culture, Neachtain's hardly needs an introduction and is always worth a visit. Here you can rejoice in the giant conversation circle that Neachtain's seems to continually host. Nearby, the Dáil Baris a newcomer and has been described as Galway's version of Doheny Nesbitt's (mercifully free, though, of politicians and senior counsel). The Dáil already seems like a pub that has been with us a long time and cares equally about the food it serves up.
Around the corner, the quirky House Hotelis an oasis of calm and has free Wi-Fi for when you really need to address those neglected e-mails. You're now near the Volvo village itself, and Bar No 8and Sheridan's on the Dockswill expertly take care of all shades of hunger and thirst.
Heading back towards the west, CavaSpanish restaurant on Dominick Street recently celebrated its first birthday and is well worth a stop for their gorgeous tapas and selection of wines. Drop into the stunning Georgian building that Galway Arts Centreinhabits, just two doors down, to check out contemporary visual art by Dorothy Cross, Ailbhe Ní Bhriain and others. Heading on towards Shop Street, the wonderful Bridge Millsbuilding is on your right and the Mustardis good for pizzas and burgers and for a Mill on the Floss-type sensation.
For finer dining, Viña Mara, the Malt House and Kirwan’s Lane are all recommended (check out Viña Mara’s excellent lunch deal at the moment). Don’t miss the phenomenon that is the inimitable Aoibheann with her flood of “darlings” at the splendid Ard Bia at Nimmo’s; part performance art, wholly restaurant, it’s a must.
The legendary, family-owned McCambridge's has just opened a sleek new coffee bar, and nearby Griffin's Bakeryis always good for some Galway banter when lunching on the hoof. Moving further up town, you arrive at Freeney's Baron High Street, which, like Neachtain's, offers the interesting experience of having to cross the outside yard to reach the loos.
Middle Street offers a great range of eating choices, with Milano's, Da Tangand Kappa-Yaall clustered on this elegant street. Just off Middle Street on Buttermilk Walk, you'll discover Galway's best Indian restaurant, Tulsi. Set aside hours and hours for your mandatory visit to Charlie Byrne's bookshop on Middle Street, where you might run into renowned Galway writers Mary O'Malley or Mike McCormack.
Music, of course, abounds in Galway, and the Crane Bar, Róisín Dubhand Tigh Cóilíare essential ports of call. In Woodquay, stop off at traditional bar Hughes, where Dave and his team will as easily advise on the prospects for the 4.30 at Sandown as comment on the theatrical fare on offer around the corner at the thriving Town Hall Theatre.
If any excesses from the night before have occasioned a poorly feeling, head straight to Galway's deservedly famous Saturday Marketfor the potato and pea curry, which will set you right for the day.
All that nourishment has you now fully equipped for the shops and cultural offerings. Abbeygate Street is fast becoming Galway's answer to Dublin's South William Street – the upper end near the docks is for the wedding and race-going set, while fittingly as you near the lower end of the street, and the university, you encounter the edgier fare – here Paganis always worth a look. Further towards the river rises a dramatic new building. This striking glass emporium houses a new clothes shop, Born in Galway, and it already seems to be creating quite a stir.
From here walk over the bridge towards the cathedral, stopping to watch the fishermen in their waders and to wonder at the constant rush and energy of the Corrib. Cast your mind forward and imagine the peaks of the beautiful blue top which the Arts Festival will impress on the Galway skyline in July. Continue on to the well-equipped Millennium Children's Parkon your left and have a chuckle at Roger McGough's recently unveiled poem there.
Head across the road to the university, making your way to the awe-inspiring quad and the original heart of the campus. Happily there’s no trace of rag-week shenanigans here – just peace and stunning architecture. For more quiet contemplation, take a trip down Nun’s Island, pausing at the Poor Clare convent and marvel at the lives lived within those walls.
Back in town, ascend to the top floor of Galway City Museumfor an unrivalled look at the city and the bay in all its glory. Walk down Druid Lane and relish the prospect of Druid Theatre's reopening with Tom Murphy's The Gigli Concertduring the Galway Arts Festival.
Away from the city, Salthill has shed its kitschy feel and has an irresistible village air. The Cottage Barin Lower Salthill has more gorgeous tapas – all that Spanish grub must be inspired by the black Irish thing – and will also graciously entertain requests to switch over to the hurling.
In the heart of Salthill, the wonderful Italian eatery Da Roberta's is more theatre than dining, with hilarious jousting between mama and papa. A walk on the prom is obligatory, where you can revel in the magnificent and joyful intergenerational mix and kick the wall, thinking about Gerard Donovan's short stories as you do. Follow this by dropping in to the ever-hospitable Eilís and Mary in Lonergan's Baron the prom.
If you fancy a little jaunt from town, travel to the charming village of Moycullenand take in their Friday Farmers' Market. A few miles further out, Brigit's Gardenwill offer you all the serenity you need to temper the intensity of city festive life.
And finally, if your festival survival pack of Beroccas and bananas is wilting under the pressure, give yourself into the hands of the Heaven Scent Beauty Spa, who will patch you up and send you back out into the world, glowing and festival fit.
EATING AND DRINKING
Artisan, Quay St, 091-532655
Cava Restaurant, Dominick St, 091-539884
The Dáil Bar, Middle St, 091-563777
Ard Bia at Nimmo’s, Spanish Arch, 091-561114
Freeney’s Bar, High St, 091-562609
Sheridan’s on the Docks, 091-564905
Mustard, The Bridge Mills, 091-566400
The House Hotel, New Dock Rd, 091-538900
Hughes Bar, Woodquay, 091-565943
The Crane Bar, Sea Rd, 091-587419
Tigh Cóilí, Mainguard St, 091-561294
Bar No 8, The Docks, 091-565111
Róisín Dubh, Upr Dominick St, 091-586540
Viña Mara, Middle St. 091-561610
Milano’s, Middle St, 091-568488
Tulsi, Buttermilk Walk, 091-564831
Da Tang, Middle St, 091-561443
Kappa-Ya, Middle St, 091-865930
The Malt House, Olde Malt Mill, 091-567866
The Cottage, Lr Salthill, 091-526754
Da Roberta’s, Upr Salthill, 091-585808
Lonergan’s, Upr Salthill, 091-522049
SHOPPING
Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop, Middle St, 091-561766
Heaven Scent, St Augustine St, 091-567192
Pagan, Upr Abbeygate St, 091-569767
Born in Galway, Newtownsmith, www.thebornstore.com
McCambridge’s, Shop St, 091-562259
Griffin’s Bakery, Shop St, 091-563683
FESTIVALS AND CULTURAL EVENTS
Volvo Ocean Race Festival, 091-539995 www.galwayvolvooceanrace.com
Galway Arts Centre (Galway Theatre Festival, October 20th-25th), 091-565886, www.galwayartscentre.ie
Galway Arts Festival (July 13th-26th), 091-509700, www.galwayartsfesival.com
Baboró Festival for Children (October 12th -18th), 091-562667, www.baboro.ie
Druid Theatre, 091-568660, www.druidtheatre.com
Galway Film Fleadh (July 7th-12th), 091-751655, www.galwayfilmfleadh.com
Galway City Museum, Spanish Arch, 091-532460, www.galwaycitymuseum.ie
Town Hall Theatre, Courthouse Square, 091-569777, www.tht.ie
Brigit’s Garden, Roscahill, 091-550905, www.brigitsgarden.ie