Cooking in:Brassicas reward a little creativity
While so many gardeners are preparing to shut down operations, some are awash with brassicas: flat and curly kales, broccoli, sprouts and all those cabbages, from pointed green to savoy and from white to red.
We have an odd relationship with this family. Farmers have sometimes ploughed cabbages back into the ground, unable to find buyers. Apparently we haven't much time for one of the most dominant of vegetable families (it includes cauliflower, mustard and turnip, too).
Yet nudge them on with a little luxury and these humble species deliver in spades. Romans, in particular, love a plate of steamed greens topped with a healthy dollop of golden olive oil and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Butter, too, works wonders on any of the brassica family, and thick yellow cream goes marvellously with cabbage.
Greens turn up a lot in Asian cooking, where their bitterness counters the sweetness of other ingredients. Wilted pak choi with oyster sauce, ginger and garlic can make a fine lunch with a little rice. Shredded into any stir-fry, so much of this family contributes a welcome edge.
The next few months are a good time to enjoy Brussels sprouts (which aren't just for Christmas). If you're shopping at a farmers' market, ask for the tops of the plant, which are soft and easy to work with. Other leaves to hang on to include those from small purple turnips. As well as blanching them to serve with olive oil, you can use them as a delicious dressing for pasta.
Recipes serve four
SPICED BRAISED CABBAGE WITH LENTILS AND POTATOES
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 dsp black mustard seeds
500g cabbage, thinly sliced
500g potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm dice
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 red chilli, finely chopped
1 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp turmeric
1l light chicken or vegetable stock
2 400g tins chickpeas, well rinsed and drained
juice and zest of 1 lemon
Heat the oil in a large pan and add the mustard seeds. As soon as they start to pop add the cabbage and potatoes, then toss in the oil for five minutes. Add the garlic, chilli and, two minutes later, the spices. Cook for a further five minutes, tossing everything so it is well coated in the oil. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes, adding the chickpeas 10 minutes before the end. Stir in the lemon juice and zest, check the seasoning and serve.
WARM SALAD OF CAULIFLOWER AND RED PEPPERS WITH OLIVES AND THYME
2 red peppers
1 small head cauliflower, broken into florets
olive oil
zest and juice of 1 lemon
handful pitted black olives
bunch scallions, with green parts, finely sliced
bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp picked thyme leaves
Grill or roast the peppers until well blackened. Allow to cool, then remove the skins, deseed and cut into strips. Blanch the cauliflower in boiling salted water for three or four minutes, or until just softening, but still with a crunch. Drain, then toss with four tablespoons of olive oil, the lemon juice and zest, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Combine the cauliflower with the red peppers, olives, scallions, parsley and thyme. Check seasoning and serve.