Cheap wines threaten the survival of the better middle-range ones. Mary Dowey nominates 10 worth splashing out for - and 10 for New Year budgeters.
I have just one New Year message to pin to this round-up of terrific tastes from 2004 and it has already been running through wine columns of the past 12 months as a refrain. Steer clear of the cheap plonk that is sloshing around the Irish market. Trade up a little - while we are still lucky enough to have a smashing assortment of wines worth trading up to. It may not last.
Towards the end of 2004, figures from AC Nielsen's Scantrack service, which monitors sales in three leading Irish supermarket groups, showed that bottles priced at €6.99 or less accounted for almost 30 per cent of all wine sales. And the average spend on wine in the multiples is slipping down steadily in the direction of €6.99 - dropping from €7.97 in August 2003 to €7.48 a year later. This is a depressing trend. Why? Because the wine in a bottle at €6.99 is worth only about 70 cent. If it's drinkable, you're lucky.
The same figures showed that wines priced at €14 or more accounted for a paltry 5 per cent of total sales. Admittedly, these are supermarket statistics and it's reasonable to suppose that the experience of independent off-licences and wine specialists was more positive. Still, it's an indication that many wine drinkers are beginning to care more about keen prices than quality.
If we don't support the producers who provide genuinely worthwhile wines in the €7 to €20 bracket - like these Bottles of the Year - we can hardly expect them to hang in here. We'll end up with a much duller, more polarised selection on the shelves, made up of a sea of cut-price plonk and a sprinkling of high-end stuff for big spenders. And the richly textured middle of the market, which has given Ireland such a bountiful array of interesting, affordable wines in the past decade, will shrink away.Don't let it happen.
TOP TEN €11 TO €20
White
Heartland Stickleback White, South Eastern Australia 2003/4. A blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Verdelho in the latest vintage, this light, lime-tinged white, now in screwcap, is still zestily refreshing. One for the summer. From Vintry, Rathgar; Searsons, Monkstown; Red Island, Skerries; Grape Escape, Lucan; Galway Wine Co, Salthill; Patrick Stewart, Sligo and many Next Door off-licences countrywide, about €11.
Paul Zinck Pinot Blanc Prestige, Alsace 2002. One of my favourite Christmas wines. Ripe apple and honey tones point to maturity - it may soon be time to move on to the next vintage - but when tasted in early November this was still a dazzler with lemon freshness in the finish. From Wicklow Wine Co; Vineyard, Galway; Wine Experience, Carrick-on-Shannon; World Wide Wines, Drumshanbo; Artisans, Athlone; Probus, Oughterard; Wine Cluster, Moycullen, €12.70-€13.70.
Springfield Estate Life from Stone Sauvignon Blanc, Robertson 2003/4. Wonderfully well-crafted Cape Sauvignon Blanc from spirited brother and sister team Abrie and Jeanette Bruwer. Intense tropical fruit flavours are held in check by a firm mineral undertow and dancing acidity. From Corkscrew, Chatham St; Vaughan Johnsons, Temple Bar & Haddington Rd; Baily Wines, Howth; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Red Island, Skerries; On the Grapevine, Dalkey & Booterstown; Grape Escape, Lucan; Vintage Store, Tullamore and others, about €15.95.
Pieropan Soave Classico 2003. Serious Soave at its most sensational. Pure hedonism, with layers of intense flavour and a refreshing, citrussy lift making for perfect balance. From Cabot & Co, IFSC; On the Grapevine, Dalkey & Booterstown; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Murtaghs, Enniskerry; Wicklow Wine Co; World Wide Wines, Waterford, about €16.50.
Clos de Saint Yves Savennières, Domaine des Baumard 2000. Of all 20 wines, the one that excites me most - and the 2000 vintage should be superb for quite some time, given the ageing potential of Savennières, one of the Loire's best secrets. Gloriously intense, honeyed fruit gives way to a reverberating, bone-dry finish. From Louis Albrouze, Leeson St; Vintry, Rathgar; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; McCabes, Mount Merrion & Gables, Foxrock; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Red Island, Skerries; Wicklow Wine Co; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar, €17.95-€18.95.
RED
Mitchelton Shiraz, Central Victoria 2002. Polished, luscious Shiraz which punches well above its price. Christmas cake aromas with a hint of mint, then a palate full of raisiny richness with a dusting of black pepper in the finish. From Dunnes Stores, €13.99.
Château Viella Madiran Tradition, Alain Bortolussi 2001. Meaty Madiran from south-west France is a welcome winter alternative to mainstream reds. This is a comfort blanket of a wine, substantial and enveloping. From Brechin Watchorn, Ranelagh; Red Island, Skerries; Wicklow Wine Co; Vineyard, Galway; Wine Experience, Carrick-on-Shannon; Artisans, Athlone; Probus Wines, Oughterard; Wine Cluster, Moycullen, €12.99-€14.99.
Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras Les Christins 2001. From the same stable as Château de Beaucastel, the renowned Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this Vacqueyras offers serious appeal at a fraction of the price. Dark autumn fruits are layered with subtle spice and a hint of chocolate in a smooth, rich mouthful with a rewardingly fresh finish. From Berry Bros, Harry St, €16.95.
Hunters Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2002. An enduring New Zealand classic on top form. Cherry, raspberry, herb and vanilla notes are wrapped together in a complex wine with a super texture, perky acidity and a gentle but persistent squeeze of tannin. Stylish. From selected Tesco, Superquinn & O'Briens outlets; McCabes, Blackrock & Gables, Foxrock; Champers, Limerick; Harvest, Galway; O'Donovans, Cork; Fahys, Ballina and others, €18.50-€18.99.
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza 2001. Very grown-up red from ambitious producer Catena with welcome minerality and a firm, savoury core beneath a seductive cloak of plush fruit. From Corkscrew, Chatham St; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; On the Grapevine, Dalkey & Booterstown; Bourkes, Cabinteely; Red Island, Skerries; Chester Beatty, Ashford; Wicklow Wine Co and others, about €18.99.
TOP TEN €10.99 OR LESS
White
Xerolithia, Peza 2003. Crisp lemony white made from the Vilana grape, a Cretan speciality. A simple fish or salad star at a great price. From Oddbins, €7.89.
Peter Lehmann The Barossa Riesling 2003/4. Flavour-packed Aussie Riesling with classic diesel aromas, heaps of juicy pineapple appeal and a long, focused finish. A cracking buy, year in, year out. From Superquinn; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Greenacres, Wexford; Ardkeen, Waterford; O'Donovans, Cork; Vineyard, Galway; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar and many others, usually €9.99.
Bethany Manse Semillon-Riesling-Chardonnay, Barossa 2003. Well-judged drink-anytime blend - lively and likeable - with up-front fruit and a reviving lime finale. From O'Briens, €10.
Domaines Féline Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet, Côteaux du Languedoc 2003. Refreshing, characterful white made from a southern French grape that deserves to be much better known. From Wines Direct, €10.15; minimum purchase six bottles (which may be mixed).
Hazendal Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2003. Terrific South African Chenin - exotic honey and mango flavours lifted by crisp, citrussy acidity - at a very tasty price. Mitchells, Kildare St & Glasthule; McCabes Blackrock & Gables, Foxrock; Bin No 9, Goatstown; Halpins, Wicklow & Gorey; Red Island, Skerries, about €10.50.
RED
Pelican Bleu Grenache-Syrah, Vin de Pays d'Oc 2001. Cosy, warming southern French red with rich, brambly fruit and a lipsmacking, herb-tinged finish. From Cabot & Co, IFSC; Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dawson St; Drinks Store, Manor St; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; Vintry, Rathgar; Mill, Maynooth; Wicklow Wine Co; Vineyard, Galway; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar and many others, €8.99-€9.99.
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Terre di Epicuro 2003. Smooth, fleshy pizza and pasta winner, less rustic than many reds from this region but still with plenty of oomph. From Listons, Camden St; Octavius, Sligo; Barley & Grape, Stranorlar; Blessings, Cavan; Vintage Store, Tullamore; Mortons, Galway; Macs, Limerick; Shannon Knights, Shannon; Jaynes, Ennis and others, usually €8.99.
La Chapelle de Castelmaure Corbières 2002. Further proof that the Languedoc can deliver brilliantly at this price point. Soft, gluggable, multipurpose red that holds its appeal with or without food. From Terroirs, €9.95.
Bestuë de Otto Bestuë Finca Rableros Tempranillo-Cabernet, Somontano 2002. Understated Spanish charmer with plummy fruit, gentle spice and savoury undertones for added interest. Best with meat. From Dunnes Stores, €9.99.
Wyndham Estate Bin 333 Pinot Noir, South Eastern Australia 2002. Smooth, raspberryish Pinot Noir with a hint of mint - very suave at the price. From selected Tesco, Spar, Gala and Londis outlets; Savages, Swords; Dew Drop, Athboy; Harvest, Galway; Grape Vine, Athenry and others, about €10.95.