Expensive, exclusive and home to the rich and famous, Howth is one of the most sought-after places to live on the east coast, rivalling Dalkey in the number of celebrity residents per square mile. Like its southside rival, there is a close-knit community of families who have lived there for generations and who protect their unique peninsula from the excesses of modern development.
Visitors to Howth will be surprised at the vast tracts of wilderness untouched by bungalow blight. East Mountain is a popular walking spot for locals and the views of the Irish sea and south across Dublin Bay are breathtaking. The efforts of local residents who have banded together under the Peninsula Action Group have paid off - both East and West Mountains are now included in a Special Amenity Order proposed by Fingal County Council.
Objections were raised by some major players on the property acquisition scene who have acquired land in these sensitive areas. Residents argue that the land was bought in the knowledge that it was already zoned "high amenity" and compensation should not be an issue. The Special Amenity Order proposal has gone before Environment Minister Noel Dempsey for ratification and residents await his decision with trepidation.
An Bord Pleanala last week turned down an application for a two-bedroom single storey house at Howth Summit and for a bungalow at the rear of 24 Main Street. The peninsula encompasses both Sutton and Howth, with one access road to Howth village from the narrowest point at Sutton Cross. Since Deer Park and Howth golf clubs preserve much of Howth as green belt, room for expansion is limited to areas around the village.
Hence, apartment developments have mushroomed on Harbour Road, most of them commendably in keeping with the maritime character of the village. Concerns have been voiced by the action group that any increase in apartment building on the peninsula will cause traffic problems at Sutton Cross. The proposed conversion of the Howth Lodge Hotel to apartments has met with some local opposition.
Provided they can afford to buy into Howth, strangers are more welcome here than when Connaught chieftain Grace O'Malley was turned away from Howth Castle on her return from a visit to Queen Elizabeth in 1575. The gates of the castle were closed as it was dinner hour and Grace stormed back to her ship, kidnapping Lord Howth's son and heir on the way. The child was returned on condition that the castle gates would always be open when dinner was being served and that a place at table would be set for unexpected guests - a tradition that has continued to the present day. The St Lawrences have been residents of Howth Castle since 1177. The present generation converted much of the land around the castle into Deer Park public golf course.
Many of the houses coming on the market in Howth change hands locally before the signboard goes up. Less property is auctioned here than in other parts of the city as Howth people tend to snap up starter homes for their children while older residents trade down to the townhouses near the village. However, rising house prices is causing concern that locals are being priced out of the area by affluent newcomers.
Period cottages which could be bought for about £60,000 a few years ago are hard to come by and expensive - costing anything from £180,000 to £220,000. Up on Baily - one of the choicest sites in Howth, with panoramic sea views, a three-bedroom mid-terrace cottage sold through Hamilton Osborne King last September for £380,000 and another in the same area fetched £575,000.
A two-bedroom cottage on East mountain needing complete refurbishment was bought for £180,000 by a local couple. Gunne residential last year sold Canon Rock Cottage on Upper Cliff Road overlooking Lambay for £900,000. In the village on Seaview terrace, Gunne has a detached modernised cottage with three bedrooms for in excess of £250,000.
Ex-Corporation houses around the village are now beyond the reach of most first-time buyers. Two and three-bedroom terraced houses on Grace O'Malley Road and Balglass Road sell now for £170,000 to £180,000 depending on condition. J B Kelly is currently selling a two-bedroom end of terrace house on Balglass Road for £200,000 and a cottage on St Nessan's Road for £170,000.
Larger family houses near the harbour are always popular. Asgard Park is a private cul-de-sac of large post-war dormer bungalows and houses, many with great views to Ireland's Eye. Douglas Newman Good has just sold a four-bedroom detached dormer bungalow for £412,000 requiring upgrading.
The further up the hill, the larger the property. Fine detached houses line Thormanby Road and its extension, Carrickbrack Road. Sherry FitzGerald is selling Ardvarna, a three-bed detached for £340,000. Off Thormanby, Mariners Cove houses sell for £600,000 plus and a three-bedroom detached house on Casana View realised £440,000 with Douglas Newman Good.
Lovely old-style detached houses on Dungriffan Road command huge prices - Sherry Fitzgerald sold Brooklawn last season for £800,000. Further up, one of the smaller bungalows on Woodcliffe Heights sold this month for £325,000. On the southern slopes of the hill, Carrickbrack House was sold last September by HOK for £642,000. Riverdance duo Moya Doherty and John McColgan bought Danes Hollow on Carrickbrack Road in 1997 for £900,000. After some planning setbacks, work now seems to be under way on the panoramic site.
The top road is indisputably Ceanchor Road, the millionaire's row of Howth. A house here with a £1 million price tag would be considered a bargain. Homes here have thick hedges, very mature south-facing gardens, a micro-climate where most plants can grow - and magnificent sea views across the bay.
Apartments are increasingly popular and very upmarket in style. One of the newest schemes, Corr Castle, is about to enter its final phase. Local fears about this development have been allayed by sensitive architecture and the planned restoration of the historic watchtower. Prices in the last phase - to be launched shortly by Douglas Newman Good - are from £330,000 for three-bedroom apartments and £650,000 for penthouses. Scarcity is the biggest problem with the property market in Howth, because people who buy here stay forever.
