From Bellinter in Meath to Lyrath in Kilkenny, Farnham in Cavan to Castlemartyr (opening shortly) in Cork, Ireland's great houses and country houses continue to be converted into hotels. But how many of them serve food that has any connection to their historic setting?
Claire Hanley's cafe, CHC at The West Wing, which opens in the original double-height kitchens of Castletown house, aims to change that, with dishes that could well have been eaten by the likes of Lady Louisa Lennox and her husband Tom Conolly back in the 18th century. There will be "contemporary versions of Georgian fare, such as savoury meat pies, and lots of delectable desserts including syllabub and trifles," says Hanley.
The cafe will be open for breakfast, morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea and supper, but she isn't going the whole hog for a full Georgian menu. There will also be salads, open sandwiches, soups and pasta. "It's exciting to be part of the house coming to life again," she says, and with her company Claire Hanley Catering, she has plenty of experience of creating food for atmospheric settings. From Farmleigh to King's Inns, and the Royal Hospital Kilmainham to Dublin Castle, if you've had occasion to dine in one of Dublin's historic buildings recently, the chances are that Claire Hanley cooked it. Hanley's company can also bring food, floral arrangements, lighting - a styling extravaganza in fact - to private homes. "We've even catered a wedding on the side of a mountain," she tells me.
At Castletown, the cafe can take advantage of the old herb garden and there is a terrace for outdoor seating. Aiming for a "classical and simple look", the emphasis will also be on using locally sourced foods, which is actually pretty Georgian in itself, as in the 18th century it was neither possible nor practicable to fly in your peas, beans and strawberries from Kenya, Peru and the US.
"The talent and dedication of food producers in Ireland is really very exciting and sustainable," notes Hanley. "For CHC at The West Wing, I'm delighted that we've got producers in the area who will supply our kitchens. So we're really doing our bit to cut out unnecessary food miles."
So how does she feel about the issues facing the food industry in Ireland? "We need to be mindful of quality and traceability. I also think it's very important to cook with what's seasonally available. Then people know that what they get is fresh and has had as little manipulation as possible. It brings back the anticipation of relishing the foods of each season."
CHC at The West Wing is open every day from 9.30am to 7pm. See also www.clairehanley.ie