A winding tour of mountains and lakes

Great Roads No 2/Crossing the Mayo Mountains, Doo Lough to Drummin: In Ireland, roads which traverse mountain ranges are relatively…

Great Roads No 2/Crossing the Mayo Mountains, Doo Lough to Drummin: In Ireland, roads which traverse mountain ranges are relatively rare. Which is a pity, as where they do occur, they tend to prove to be exceptional journeys, not to mention fine examples of the road-maker's art.

For this journey I travelled along a road new to me which I discovered quite by chance when exploring the road from Leenaun to Delphi, itself a fine road which we'll return to later in this series.

To be truthful, the road from Doo Lough to Drummin does not traverse the mountains; rather it winds its way, at times in spectacular fashion, through a series of valleys between the peaks of Ben Creggan and Ben Gorm on its southern side and the Sheeffry Hills on its northern side.

I began my journey at the signpost for Liscarney on almost the southernmost tip of Doo Lough about two kilometres along the R335 from Delphi travelling towards Louisburg.

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This is a spectacular part of County Mayo but at first the road taken does not look promising. Little more than a single vehicle road - although there are plenty of places to pass - it has a good surface all along its length.

But after about a kilometre make sure and pause to look back the direction you have come and you'll see the spectacular bulk of the Teevaree Rocks, part of the Mweelrea Mountains, rise up behind. To the north, running down almost to the road itself, is a spectacular river and waterfall. Clinging to the lower slopes of Ben Creggan (693m) the road winds through a spectacular and wild landscape. Having looked back and seen this spectacular scene, the mood is set for the rest of the journey.

The road now continues in similar vein until after about five kilometres it begins to climb over Tawnyard Lough which presents a complete contrast to the landscape already traveled.

As so often in Ireland, within just a few short kilometres the whole feel of the landscape alters and as the road climbs one finds oneself looking out over a sylvan landscape surrounding the lough and its islands.

The road then begins to travel northeast leaving the lough behind, and as it does so crests a brow to unexpectedly reveal spectacular cliff scenery looking towards Glenlaur to the west.

Here the road clings to the mountain's edge and the signs warning of rock falls are to be heeded - one had evidently happened not long before I made my passage of this portion of the road.

After this spectacular part of the journey the road travels through the tiny village of Drummin which is really the end of our journey. Continue on to get to the main Leenaun to Westport road, the excellent N59, via Owenmore Bridge, then turning east shortly afterwards at the signpost for Carrowkennedy.

As I left this wonderful road and its spectacular mountain passage I was struck again and again by the 'Paul Henry-esque' landscapes which surrounded me on all sides.

Perhaps it was just the day that was in it - a bitterly cold March day with spectacular cloudscapes between the showers of hail - whatever it was, this was a journey that brought me close to the painter's landscapes of the Connemara wilderness.

And that in itself is a good reason to seek out and explore this spectacular road. Enjoy.