GREAT DRIVES: UPPER LOUGH ERNE DRIVE:A meander along the banks of Upper Lough Erne in Fermanagh can be tailored to your own tastes by taking in many of the diversions along the way, writes BOB MONTGOMERY
THE TWO lakes that comprise Lough Erne – Upper and Lower – have long attracted me since I first looked down on the vast expanse of Lower Lough Erne from the heights of the Cliffs of Magho, which border that lake’s southern shore.
The two lakes are, of course, wider sections of the river Erne as it flows west into the Atlantic. The southern and smaller lake is further up the river and so is named Upper Lough Erne. The more northerly of the two lakes is Lower Lough Erne.
On the short stretch of river between the two lakes lies the town of Enniskillen and there are an incredible 154 islands on the two lakes. While the lower lake is some 42km in length and can have waves similar to those found at sea in stormy conditions, the shallower upper lake runs southeast of Enniskillen for about 19km and is a veritable maze of little islands. In this first of two articles on Lough Erne, we’ll concentrate on Upper Lough Erne.
Taking Enniskillen as our starting point, we head southwest out of the town on the A32 before branching off on to the A509 signposted for Belturbet. Travelling parallel to the river Erne and then as it widens out into an expanse of water populated by small islands, we pass through the villages of Bellanaleck, Mackan and Derrylin before turning east on the road (B127) signposted for Lisnaskea.
Some of the best views of Upper Lough Erne are to be had near the Lady Craigavon Bridge but like so much of this route, to see it at its best, you must pursue several of the brown signs down to the innumerable piers and jetties that border its waters.
The many, many islands make it difficult to form a coherent picture of this lake in your mind’s eye but that is part of its charm. From every vantage point it appears different, each unveiling a different aspect of its character. And that character is entirely different and unique from Lower Lough Erne, its sister lake just a few short kilometres up the road.
Before long, the B127 intersects with the A34. It’s possible to continue into Enniskillen along the A34 but that would be to miss much of the charm of this route and its tantalising glimpses of the lake. So, having joined the A34 for about two kilometres, turn left onto the B514 that stays closer to the lakeshore.
As I’ve said, the very nature of this lake’s charm is its many jetties and coves so take the time to divert from the B514 and travel down to the water’s edge. All too soon, we arrive in the neat village of Tamlaght, where we once more join the A34 for the short distance remaining into Enniskillen.
One final note: as you drive around both lakes, you will probably notice signs to an unusually high number of castles.
These are a legacy of the plantation period, as it was a requirement of plantation law that every English or Scottish settler who accepted a portion of land should build a strong castle on it. The castles’ survival rate was highest in counties Fermanagh and Tyrone, with many of the best examples found around Upper and Lower Lough Erne.
This is an exploration that you tailor to your own tastes by taking in many of the diversions met along the way. The roads are good and the wildlife is everywhere to be seen with a great abundance of cranes, in particular.
Take time to enjoy this unique place. In the next article in the series, we’ll explore Lower Lough Erne – completely different in character to its smaller sister lake.
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