A cool breeze saw us off from Dublin on a winter adventure that we knew was about to get significantly colder. Over a couple of pints in a warm bar in Blackrock, Co Dublin, last October a trip to the Nordkapp, the northernmost point in Europe, seemed enticing.
However, it was more than the normal pub banter and drink-induced dreams. By late January we were on our way: Mark Dineen, Harri Holopainen - our Finnish instigator - and yours truly.
The spirit of the trip, run every two years since 1992, is to add an element of risk and anticipation to each day of the long journey by driving in older, and perhaps less reliable, cars. There's the added adventure of breaking down at -32° - having to find an oil filter for a Daimler XJ6 adds spice to the trip.
The oldest car in our group is a reconditioned 1973 VW Beetle, the most recent a 1992 Saab 900. Our transport is a 1983 4.2 Daimler Sovereign XJ6 bought specifically for the tour.
The choice is dictated by the possibility of selling it to some lucky Finn at the end of the trip. High taxes contribute to excessive second-hand car prices in Finland and Daimler Sovereigns are not a common sight on their roads.
Having driven through England and Sweden, our early morning arrival in Turku in the southwest of Finland is welcomed by the Finnish police waving a breathalyser through the passenger door. Realising their mistake they breathalyse the driver and let us through.
Some winter preparations are in order. We fit winter-studded tyres, buy cold weather clothes before spending four days in south and east Finland, eventually meeting up with our fellow travellers on the Arctic Circle.
We are now eight cars, carrying seven nationalities: Irish, Finnish, Austrian, Dutch, Russian, Estonian and German. (A bicycle ridden by a Swiss rider completed the whole 1,800 kilometres at an average speed of 15 kph - he slept in the open with just a sleeping bag, or in his tent if it was snowing).
When temperatures fall to -32°, cars develop pressing problems. The extremes of high-engine temperature during the day and sub-zero temperatures at night cause expansion and contraction problems in some of the cars with seals and joints opening. Summer oil in one car turns to sludge, making early morning starts difficult. At least we have power, thanks to an Exide heavy-duty low temperature battery.
As our trek proceeds, the isolated rolling hills of Finland give way to the imposing mountains and forests of Norway. Descending to sea level for the last leg of our journey up the side of a frozen fjord, we then climb again into increasingly bad weather as we near our destination.
Nordkapp is on an island which is joined to the mainland by a tunnel nearly seven kilometres long. The €28 toll for a car and three occupants puts the proposed Port Tunnel charge into perspective.
We stay in Skarsvåg which, warmed by the Gulf Stream, is the world's most northerly ice-free fishing port. To put that in perspective, we are now just over 71° north, nearer the North Pole than northern Alaska.
Old cars deserves certain privileges and the road to Nordkapp is opened specially for us the next morning. We can begin a journey that is both exhilarating and frightening. Wind-whipped snow swirls around us making it impossible to see anything at times.
Momentum is the key. It's vital to keep going, because starting again on these slopes was difficult. It's also difficult, given low visibility, keeping a safe distance from the car in front.
There's no room for manoeuvre. Snow and ice cloak jagged rocks and other dangers on one side of the road - the other side, in at least one spot, is a sheer drop to the sea.
We make it without too much trouble although I don't recommend pushing a XJ6 up an icy slope in these conditions.
Sightseeing? Well, between treacherous roads and terrible weather there is no view to appreciate.
There's no time for hanging around either. Our stay is cut short after 30 minutes as the weather deteriorates and there are concerns for our safe return.
The following morning finds us waiting at the road barrier behind the snow plough. We drive back through the tunnel, dropping another €28.
About 70 km down the road we are brought to a halt. The road is closed by an avalanche that's too big to be cleared by the snow plough. We have no alternative but to retrace our path back through the tunnel.
The weather is now deteriorating rapidly and five of our eight vehicles go off the road. However, besides a few bruised egos we make it back with no damage done. A return to our previous nights' accommodation is impossible because the next 20km stretch of road is blocked. We end up staying in the local Baptist hostel.
On our journey south the next day we are treated to a display of the Aurora Borealis. Arced from horizon to horizon, the spectral phenomenon of the Northern Lights is magical to watch. However 20 minutes standing outside in -15° degrees is enough and we head on to another bed. From here we put the car on a train and travel overnight to Helsinki and then home.
SURPRISINGLY we remained on speaking terms throughout the 18-day expedition, although lack of mid-day food (apart from the ubiquitous service station doughnuts and coffee) did give rise to occasional tetchiness. We had been a mixed lot, nationalities tending to split along lines defined by common language. But we enjoyed it all and, most importantly, we made it to the top.