Fresh takes on an old favourite
It is time to turn to Spain for a ray of sunshine. But we are not heading for those bright new lights of Iberian promise such as Jumilla and Rias Baixas, but rather the old familiarity of La Rioja in the north-east.
This is not the Rioja of deadening oak and weary black fruit, but smart new wines made from single estates by a new generation determined to build on the area's traditions and to create a few of its own. There are three clear sub-divisions, Baja in the south, Alta in the north-west and Alavesa in the north-east. The last two neighbouring regions, where Tempranillo is the dominant grape, are increasingly the more important.
Three winemakers from the region visited Ireland in recent months. First up was the irrepressible Miguel-Angel de Gregorio whose Finca Allende estate in Briones in the Rioja Alta is increasingly seen as a benchmark for the new wave. Steeped in the tradition - his father was a noted winemaker - he has built up his reputation since 1986 with clean, balanced wines of great character and concentration.
At a tasting in Berry Brothers & Rudd's Dublin premises, he captivated his audience with an enthusiastic babble of Spanglish and an array of fine bottles. Top of his range is the Aurus (€125), made from 60-year-old vines, of which American critic Robert Parker, rating 95 points, said: "There is no question that the 2001 Aurus, an 85 per cent Tempranillo/15 per cent Graciano blend, is a profound offering." It was long and sublime, though I also surrendered to the silky richness of the 2002 Calvario (€75).
De Gregorio emphasised two points echoed by Juan-Carlos de la Calle of Bodegas Artadi at a later encounter: that he made wine, not rules (in reference to both men's disregard of the laws governing crianza, reserva and gran reserva wines) and that the cool Atlantic climate was as, if not more, important than the hot Mediterranean influence in determining a good vintage.
De la Calle, a wiry man with coiled-spring fervour and engaging rustic friendliness, has three strings to his bow: the Alavesa property he set up in 1985 and two more recent projects in Navarre and Alicante. Though the new projects are interesting - the El Seque de Artazu 2004 from Alicante (€22.50) was a dark spicy pleasure - the Rioja wines are the real glory, from the silky rounded violets of Vinas de Gain 2004 (€20.95), to the intense blackberry of the Pagos Viejos 1998 (€180 plus). See www.jnwines.com.
Finally, Basque winemaker Lalo Anton introduced the wines of Vina Izadi at a dinner at L'Ecrivain in Dublin. The setting was apt, as Izadi was set up in 1987 when Lalo's father Gonzalo employed top winemaker Mariano Garcia to create wines for his own Michelin-starred restaurant. Izadi now has two other projects in Ribero del Duero and Toro. But again, it was the Alavesa wines, notably the elegant perfumed Expresión from the great 2001 vintage, the Crianza and the Viura-rich Rioja Blanco 2006, that stood out.
Wines of the week
Finca Allende Rioja Tinto 2001, Rioja Alta, 13.5%, €24.95As an introduction to Miguel-Angel de Gregorio's brilliant way with Tempranillo, this wine - swathed in oak but fruit-forward - from an acclaimed vintage could hardly be surpassed. Berry Brothers & Rudd, Harry Street, Dublin 2.
Vina Izadi Crianza 2003, Rioja Alavesa, 13.5%, €15.99A hot vintage in Spain, as everywhere, with inevitable blurring, but class wins out. From: Drinkstore, Manor Street, Dublin 2; Uncorked, Rathfarnham, Dublin 14; The Malthouse, Trim; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; The Vineyard, Galway.
Sierra Cantabria, Gran Reserva, Rioja Alavesa, 2001, 14%, €26.95The traditional edge: 24 months in American oak, but still remarkably cherry fresh and silky, with a little pepper and spice, this great value wine (named after the nearby mountain- range) has real depth and presence. O'Brien's.