FOOD:Beetroot can be delicious when paired with another ingredient - and it's really good for you, too, writes Domini Kemp
A GOOD RULE TO follow is that the darker the vegetable, the better it is for you. So beetroot is right up there with curly kale and spinach in terms of goodness, while iceberg lettuce is really just for the birds (and some rabbits).
It took me a long time to appreciate the smell of dirt, which I've always associated with beetroot. The smell actually has little to do with soil microbes and a lot more to do with an organic compound called geosmin, which is produced by the beetroot itself.
My pal Caroline was the first to introduce me to the pickled jar variety of beetroot. She used it quite brilliantly, to create her very own signature dish, long before Gordon Ramsay and the boys had even heard of signature dishes or risotto. It was a classic combination, which she still inflicts on us when we go over to her house for dinner.
Long before fancy chefs started pairing beetroot with crab or goat's cheese or even transforming it into fluorescent oil, young Caroline was busy coming up with a teenage fantasy snack. She toasted thick slices of white bread, slathered them in butter and piled them high with red cheddar, ready for grilling, with someone on fire alarm alert. Afterwards she would set them aside for a while, as the boiling hot cheese could ruin the roof of your mouth (and hence your social life), then finish the "cooking" part by grilling a tonne of fish fingers to within an inch of their life.
Regular updates on Australian daytime telly had to be given to the chef every few minutes, while pickled beetroot and tomatoes were sliced. The whole thing would be layered up and sealed, with globs of mayonnaise and iceberg lettuce. In its day it was pretty glorious. But we've moved on - or at least I have - to more refined beetroot pairings, hence the beetroot and lentil vinaigrette.
When cooking lentils I've played around with different recommendations on how to avoid that pappy texture. Two things help: although technically puy lentils don't require soaking in the same way that chickpeas or red kidney beans do, you'll find that a 10-minute soak will speed up the cooking process. This is because heat penetrates water faster than air, and when you cook legumes the first part of cooking actually involves the water trying to penetrate the seed itself. This is especially relevant when it comes to lentils, as their cooking time is usually brief enough, so by the time the inside is cooked through, the fragile outer area can become a bit bashed.
Adding salt to the water also helps by speeding up the process, and this appeals to me more than adding baking soda (another trick, as the alkality of baking soda can make the lentils seem too soft, due to the breakdown of cell walls). Suffice to say that exact times for cooking lentils are reduced by adding salt and having a quick soak. Better yet, taste them after 10 minutes and see how much longer they need. You are the best judge of how you like them.
Roast chicken breasts with goat's cheese, chorizo and basil
4 chicken breasts, skin removed
200g goats cheese
100g chorizo, finely diced
Handful pine nuts, toasted
Few basil leaves
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Few knobs of butter
Preheat oven to 200 degrees. First you are going to beat up the chicken breasts. You need to slice them horizontally, but not quite in half. Lay the two attached halves out flat on a large piece of cling film. Fold the cling film over the top of the chicken so the meat is sandwiched between the cling film. On a chopping board, firmly pound the chicken breasts with a rolling pin, so that they spread out and become very thin and flat. Peel the cling film from the top of the chicken and put a quarter of the goat's cheese and chorizo on each chicken breast. Place a few basil leaves on top, season lightly and roll up. Wrap in the cling film, quite tightly and chill until ready to cook. Don't panic if they are a bit messy. You can leave them overnight, wrapped in the fridge. Be very careful about handling other utensils, food or other objects after handling the raw chicken. Wash your hands!
Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a large frying pan. Have a gratin dish ready. Gently sear the chicken breasts, two at a time, on both sides. Add the butter and baste. Season with plenty of black pepper and transfer to the gratin dish. Providing you have a good golden colour on the chicken, cover loosely with tin foil, and cook in the oven for about 12 minutes. If they are looking a bit pale, don't bother covering with the foil. Allow to rest for at least three minutes before slicing or serving whole. If you are a bit panicky about whether the chicken is cooked, cut one of the breasts in half. If you see pink, put it back in the oven for a few more minutes.
Beetroot and lentil vinaigrette
2 large beetroots
Olive oil
100g puy lentils
Salt
250ml red wine
Good tablespoon honey
1 red onion, peeled and finely diced
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
100ml olive oil
Preheat oven to 160 degrees. Rub the beetroot with a little olive oil, wrap in tin foil and bake for about 40 minutes until fairly tender.
Meanwhile, soak the lentils for 10 minutes if possible, rinse well and cook in a saucepan, well covered with water. Add a big pinch of salt to the cooking water. Bring up to the boil and gently simmer for 10-20 minutes. When they are just soft, drain and rinse under cold water to refresh. Drain and set aside.
Heat the red wine in a saucepan and boil until reduced by half. Take off the heat, add the honey, onion and balsamic and then slowly whisk in the olive oil.
Slice the skin off the beetroot, then cut into small dice. Add to the lentils and add the vinaigrette. Mix well and serve while still warm.