New wine shops are giving us a wider range of goodies, writes Joe Breen.
There are many reasons for getting into the wine business but Donal Tuomey's was pretty succinct: "because I wanted a life". Well actually that was the reason the 27-year-old one-time hotel restaurant manager left that business - "I had worked enough doubles/lates/ splits/weekends etc to last a lifetime!" The reason he got into the wine business was more predictable - he fell in love with it via leading Dublin wine merchant Mitchell & Son where he worked for a number of years.
And now he has taken a giant step for himself and what could be an interesting development for his former employers. Next Thursday Tuomey will officially open the first Mitchells franchise store at a new premises on the Grange Road opposite Marley Park in Dublin.
Franchising is catching on in the Irish wine trade. The Wine Buff - a new one has opened in Sandycove - has operated a franchise operation for many years. The owners have the security of an established brand and the energy of their own initiative. And in the case of Mitchell's, due to vacate their premises on Kildare Street shortly, leaving them with just their Glasthule operation, it provides a wider market for their extensive list of wines without them having to sink large amounts of capital.
Tuomey intends to stock "nearly all" the Mitchells wines in his large shop, as well as accessories such as Riedel glassware, cigars and gift vouchers. He says in addition he will offer a wider range of Italian Artisan foods, meats, "and hopefully Sheridans cheese".
I hope his shop carries some of the stunning 2005 Burgundies Mitchells' Joachim Lefaure unearthed from small producers during a recent visit. We are talking small quantities but the Lignier Moray St Denis is a no-brainer if you can get your hands on it. There is also a bargain on offer. These 2005s only arrive in Mitchells in November and so an "en primeur" price of €135 per case for the rich Vielles Vignes 2005 Domaine Cornu from Ladoix will apply until October 14th, after which (dramatic music Maestro) it "will go up substantially". After duty, Vat and freight of €71.91, this gives a total price of €206.91, ie a net €17.24 a bottle. An "amazing price", says M Lefaure, and we heartily agree.
With Christmas in sight, now is the time to launch new retail ventures. After what has been a poor summer, the next few months will be critical for the major players such as O'Brien's. That company's new "superstore" in Beacon South Quarter in Dublin's Sandyford Industrial Estate is a strong statement of confidence. This is a fine modern drink store with some 2,000 wines, an impressive tasting area with more than 60 wines available by the glass via the Eno dispensing system pioneered by Eno Wines in their Monkstown premises. There's also a selection of artisan foods and cheeses, the latter provided by Sheridans. A metal staircase leads up to a overhanging balcony, the shelves of which will be heaving with vintage port, aged Armagnacs and brandies and a serious collection of single malts.