The vast majority of wine drunk in this country costs less than EUR12. Yet most wine books and wine columns tend to concentrate on wines that sell for far more. I am as guilty as any on this score, although I try to include less expensive wines where possible.
Several years ago I wrote 101 Wines Under EUR10.Mary Dowey has now taken over the writing and tasting duties. To allow for inflation, EUR10 has now become EUR12, the wines have changed and various new sections have been included. Thanks to the Minister for Finance, some of the featured wines will now cost more than EUR12, but it remains a really useful book, written in plain, easy-to-read prose, and will be invaluable to every wine buyer.
Everything about the book makes it easy to use. Each of the 101 wines is given a full page; alongside the retail price, alcohol content and list of stockists, there is a short tasting note, food suggestions and a point of interest. The wines are divided by style rather than country or region, and there are separate sections for sparkling (under EUR15) and fortified wines.
Dowey says: "I was concerned that at this price, I would be faced with a huge lake of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In the event, there was a lot of Sauvignon, but it was really surprising and exciting that so many of the unusual grape varieties came to the fore and made it into the book, too. To me, some of the real appeal of wine is the opportunity to try the new and exciting."
Virtually every country is represented, including Austria, Germany, and Portugal. Only the US is missing. Dowey tasted plenty but "nothing stood out at this price". As she argues, it is very frustrating to come across people who say "I know what I like, and I stick to it". This book provides a gilt-edged opportunity to be a little adventurous without having to break the bank.
One big advantage the book has over rival UK publications is availability; all of the wines are in our shops, and most are very accessible. This is important. "In the final selection (I had more than I could taste), the issue of easy availability was vital," Dowey says. "Many wines fell by the wayside because they were only stocked by one or two shops. A wine had to be available online, in the multiples or in a half-dozen or more off-licences to be considered." This is a genuinely useful wine guide, small
in size and easy to use. It will fit into your handbag or back pocket, ready for the next time you shop in the supermarket or off-licence. No Irish wine drinker should be without it.
This column has already featured many of the wines in the book, but below are six more of my favourites from 101 Wines. As duties have increased, I have added 50 cent to the retail prices given in the book, unless I was informed otherwise. Some retailers will add more, others will hold prices.
Kiwi Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Vin de pays du Val de Loire, 11.5%, EUR9.49-EUR9.99. The label looks New World, the wine a cross between old and new. There are good fresh grassy aromas, crisp green fruits with plenty of citrus, and surprisingly good length for a wine at this price. Stockists: Spar, Tesco, SuperValu, Centra.
Tesco's Finest Gavi 2007, 12.5%, EUR10.49.I mentioned this wine in passing a few weeks ago. It is a good Gavi at a very attractive price. Light, crisp pear fruits with a mineral edge. Great with lighter fish dishes or as an aperitif. Stockist: Tesco.
Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007, 14%, EUR11.49-EUR11.99.This is never the lightest of rosés, but with food it is quite delicious; relatively full, rich red fruits, with plenty of body. Dowey suggests trying it with mildly spicy chicken and duck dishes. I can see it going nicely with chicken tandoori. Stockists: Londis; Next Door; Super Valu; Centra; Cheers, Dublin; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Mitchell & Son, Glasthule, Rathfarnham and IFSC; Molloys.
Agustinos Pinot Noir Reserva 2007 Bio-Bio Valley, Chile, 14%, EUR10.49.Chile is making some cracking Pinot Noir these days, at prices we can afford. This version has soft, ripe summer fruits, with a hint of spice, and a nicely rounded finish. Very moreish stuff to drink solo or Dowey suggests grilled or roast chicken or duck. Stockist: Superquinn.
Norton Barrel Select Malbec 2005, 13.5%, EUR9.99.The Norton Malbec has always been one of my favourite wines from Argentina. Rich juicy dark fruits, without any bully-boy tannins, this would be great with most red meats. Stockists: O'Briens.
Mitchelton Blackwood Park Riesling 2006 Central Victoria, Australia, 13.5%, EUR10.79.This has been one of the best value wines in the country for some years now. Floral, with plump red apple fruits set off perfectly by a mineral streak. Dowey suggests trying it with salads, and Asian fish and chicken dishes. Stockist: Dunnes Stores.
101 Great Wines under EUR12by Mary Dowey is published by A&A Farmar, EUR9.99