Small helpings

WHIFF OF SPICE Garlic lovers are enjoying the ramsons season, which is now at its height.

WHIFF OF SPICE Garlic lovers are enjoying the ramsons season, which is now at its height.

WHIFF OF SPICE Garlic lovers are enjoying the ramsons season, which is now at its height. Woodland around the country is smelling sweetly - if you happen to like garlic - with the star-like blossoms of this useful plant. You can use the bulbs as a milder form of the European garlic, or incorporate the leaves in salads. Ronan Fleming, who was with Bombay Pantry in Glenageary for many years and now runs Indian Spice in Greystones, uses wild Wicklow garlic leaves as a highly original and utterly delicious topping for naan bread. If you have enough of the leaves they can be cooked gently with butter in much the same way as spinach. And then get your guests to guess what they are eating. Ronan's takeaway is easy to miss. Look out for the narrow entrance beside Bel's Bistro. Indian Spice, Church Road, Greystones, Co Wicklow, 01-2010868. Tom Doorley

OUT ON THE TOWN Ronan Ryan and Temple Garner's Town Bar & Grill has been identified as Ireland's "hot table" by Condé Nast Traveler magazine, in its list of the best newcomers in 100 countries around the world. They were particularly impressed by the ribollita, a traditional Tuscan bread and bean soup. A Mano Primitivo, a rich southern Italian red, was one of the best value house wines in Dublin and a steal at €17.95 in Town. The only problem was that it sold a mere dozen bottles a week. Now that the price has been, reluctantly, put up to a still very reasonable €20.95 it is flying out at a rate of six dozen a week. Town Bar & Grill, 21 Kildare Street, Dublin 2, www.townbarandgrill.com, 01-6624724. Tom Doorley